Greetings,

Looking for some advice on what to look for on a 1999 F350 7.3. I'm flying out to pick it up, then taking it to a reputable shop for a pre buy inspection. However, before I drive it off what are some quick checks I can do before I drive it to the shop that would be show stoppers, so not to waste anyone's time and money?

The truck has 181,000 miles on it and looks to be in really good shape. Just used by the previous owner to haul a 5th wheel. Paying 12K for it.

 

Thats a Late 99 Cheaper to replace up pipes than the Early 99s.
Start it up cold, crank it a few seconds after the wait to wait to start light on the dash goes off. Once it's idling take the oil cap off and turn it upside down and place it back on the oil fill port. If it gets blown off it has piston blow by, if it just vibrates a little thats good. There's a sticky for things to look for, but that would be THE big thing.
Pull the air filter, look down the intake tube to the turbo, if it looks like oily clumps in the tube the filter assembly leaks post filter and dusted the turbo. Have the mech pull the fuel filter on top of the motor, if its black you may be looking at injector orings or cups. Check the corners of the oil pan for leaks at the pan you have to pull the motor to reseal the pan, if the turbo pedestal leaks it will look like the rear main seal is bad since it drains right above it. Test the SCA of the coolant. Obviously check the color/smell of the transmission fluid. Diff fluid level. Cant tell what's going on with the driver's side battery/air filter in the photo

 

Here's a checklist compiled by one of the members here. I'd add to it to place the oil fill cap upside down on the oil fill but while the engine is running. If it just sits there and rattles off, it passes the blowby test. If it blows off with pressure, it fails said test.

Pre-buy checklist

 

I'd probably buy it on site from the pictures. Guess the question is why is the owner selling it? IMO if the exterior and interior is clean and especially the engine bay it shows pride in ownership, just a general rule of thumb, but it does look a little too clean.. With that many miles of course you need to take it out and drive it. Front and rear suspension components, drive train and of course brakes can get costly if going bad. Running boards are probably old and cracked if original but I wouldn't worry about that as they are easy to remove and put something else on, maybe reduce the price $500 or so.

 

Thanks, for the advice. The truck belonged to the sellers brother who passed away. He owned it since new. The seller is selling it for the widow, is my understanding. The tranny was rebuilt by a Ford dealer about 11k ago, and the one owner Carfax is clean. Water pump was just replaced, along with ball joints and the front hubs were repacked etc. Of course this is all according to the seller.

He's also throwing in a 5th wheel hitch, which I need, saving me about a grand.

Thanks for the info and advice.

 

Looks clean but looks can be deceiving. I would not buy it sight-unseen at that price.


I would check:

Injectors - At that mileage they could be due for replacement. If it's coming from a warm area (looks like AZ tags), the injectors might have issues the current owner doesn't even know about. If you take it to a cold climate, it could be a serious issue.

Rings - Check for blow-by (oil cap test)

Coolant - Check the degas bottle for fuel/oil

Driveline - check u-joints and slip yokes for slop or play, these will trash a transmission over time if not fixed. My trans was cracked right in half due to a sticky slip yoke.

Driveline - If the rear axle or transmission is seeping any oil, there could be some major issues. My rear axle had a minor leak that turned out to be a botched rebuild, the axle was full of shavings and it cost about $2k to rebuild properly.

Valley oil leaks - Leak points won't be obvious, but look for fuel/oil in the valley.

ICP - Get a wifi OBD scanner and Forscan before you go, if you don't have one already. It's pretty non-invasive to check a lot of sensor values through Forscan.

Transmission - not sure if this matters on an auto but it does a manual; Dip a paper towel into the fill port and look for coolant infiltration. Fluid should not be milky.

If you have access to a FLIR IR camera, take that. It's quick and easy to check for glow plug function, wires to plugs should get hot pretty quick. (Glow plugs also not work at all, but wouldn't be obvious in AZ unless it's located up North where it actually gets cold)

Good luck

 

 

If it starts buy it!

Smoking deal. One owner...............

Take all advice above and understand the age, but if you and I were bidding, it would be a war.

What will you use it for?

Denny

 

I bought a 5th wheel, so mainly that. I also love the look and the sound. I bought a 99 6spd new, but sold it like an idiot years ago. Now I actually need one, but am not about to pay for a new one, without a 7.3 as well.

 

Coil front springs and no obvious locking hubs, thinking it's 2WD. Take intake off and look at turbo. Very clean unmolested truck. As long as it checks out at the shop and it fits your needs, looks like a winner

 

See a snake kill it Tex. If you pass on this I would like the number.

Please.

Denny

 

BTW,

Not seeing a brake controller in the pix and does it have rails installed for a hitch?

Thanx

 

Yes it does have rails.

 

Out west, a truck like that would fetch quite a bit more than 12K. Enough for someone to offer 2K more, pay for a plane ticket to get there, a motel to stay, and fuel to drive it back, (another 1K), and flip it out here for another 2K more (say, 17K) and make 2K for a weekend road trip.

Have a look at this single rear wheel super cab 4x4 6 speed for $33K in the link below. Sure, it only has 39K miles, but that truck sold for slightly less than $33K full sticker no dicker brand new 20 years ago.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd...740019011.html

.

 

Roger that, that's why I decided I better get one now vs. wait a few years until I retire.