ATS 2049302164

Whats peoples thoughts on these manifolds over standard? Keeping mind i wont ever flow anymore than about 300 350hp,800 850nm is my goal powerwise really.

or would this manifold be a better choice?

AFE 46-40044

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CM-SOLID...QAAOSwVWpa5oyn

And this is the flywheel ive found on ebay.

• ​​​Flywheel Type: Solid
• Flywheel Step: Flat (0")
• Ring Gear Count: 152 teeth
• Weight: 47.8 lbs
• Important Note: Must be used with 13" clutch

​​​​​​​Look like the go does it

 

The stock manifold is fine, if you want to upgrade it you can, but I would never buy anything from ATS.

 

Wow I just saw the prices for those manifolds, I would use the stock one, you will gain very little by getting one of the aftermarket ones, not enough to justify the cost.

 

For what your wanting a stock replacement would work just fine

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...aust-manifolds

That's a good price for the flywheel but remember it'll still need to be bored for a ZF pilot bearing or bushing.
Send Soutbend and Valair emails for their recommendations and pricing for a complete clutch that includes a new flywheel already modified to work with your swap.

What bolt pattern is the ZF5 behind your 4.2
Here they don't make adapters for transmissions using the smaller gas bolt patterns but do make them for ZF5 that came behind 7.3's.

 

im not sure of the zf5 bolt pattern but ill take a bulk amount of photos once its all out.

i spoke with the f series parts dealer here and he has 7.3 flywheel in stock and south bend clutch kits. so i will get one off him so it bolts right up!

that way i wont need it bored or bushed hey

ill check the stock manifold for straightness as well.

 

Answered some of this in the other forum

 

Cheers destroked 450 ill prob post .post stuff in both 😁

 

95 model i think he said mid 200k kms 215hp manual engine.
comes with kdp kit
sump gasket and tappet gasket already done and he will give me the crank seals. Also has mew fuel pump.

 

Post a photo of the left side of the engine.
Also look for a tag on the left side of the gear case, all of the engines info will be on that tag
It has a spin on fuel filter that indicates it to be a 94-95 model engine, in the US those years came in 160-175 hp
215 manual engine came out in 96-97 models.
I see some hoses sticking out on the left side indicating the power steering pump may still be mounted to the engine.
The FSS solenoid is missing
To bad you didn't get more wiring with it but it's not a must have item.
You need to take that aluminum Dodge cover off of the top of the valve covers, can't have something like that in a Ford engine bay.
It may cause the truck to run backwards.

 

So since this photo he has done new FSS sump gasket tappet gasket and ha run the engine. He sent me a video of it running with all the tags but my phone shrunk it to much to be able to read it so hes sending it via email he reckons. ill sus him on the model cause im not paying him extra for a 160-175hp engine that is for sure.

oh he sending a full harness with it also.

oh hell yes the dodge cover is coming off haha not need that being read when the bonnet is open

 

There really isn't that much difference between the 160,175,180 or 215 HP engines. The pumps can be turned up just the same on all of them. I actually recall a few people saying that the 160-180 HP pumps can make more power when turned up than the 215 HP pump.

 

That's not correct!
The 160/175 p pumps have a different cam in them that slows down the fill rate to the plungers, this can be over come to a point with higher fuel pressure but the quick fill cams in the 180/215 pumps are much better. 160/175 pump will deliver unto 400cc of fuel, 215 pump will deliver well over 500cc making over 200hp more than a 160/175 pumped engine.
You can put a 180/215's quick fill cam in the 160/175 pumps but the cam alone cost over $800 plus labor to build the pump
160/175 pumps are more prone the plungers sticking if operated with low fuel pressure, I experienced this problem personally with the 160 engine I originally installed.
You can turn all of them up but the 180/215 will make more power with the same adjustments.

 

All 4 of them are capable of making double the HP he wants.

 

i think for the extra 350 bucks ill go with the 215hp engine. im about to call and confirm what year model it actially is and get some photos of the engine tag etc.. as i said 300 350hp at this stage is all i want. if its reliable in still in 5 years time ill prob up the anty a little to maybe 450hp but id rather something that i can drive hassle free for the nextb 10 years