Good afternnon Y'all.

So after a long deployment, and busy days and nights at work, I have got around to starting the ol' girl again.
Several things I've identified, but might need a second opinion on.
1. White smoke on acceleration. Smells of unburnt fuel, but I have oil coming out the DP connection on the turbo (which was just freshly rebuilt before going to Iraq.)
Thinking it might be injectors from everything I've been reading. A few other guys think that the turbo is messed up. Could have been a cheap oil seal on the center cartridge is the only things that crosses my mind. However, the center cartridge was brand new, and I used a high quality rebuild kit.
2. Key turns on the WTS light, but doesn't turn the truck over. Truck jumps from fender relay, so I'm thinking ignition cylinder has gone south.
3. Brakes have completely drained. Noticed one of the steel lines has blown out, and I'm having a hard time finding replacements for them. Am I better off taking the lines off, going to the big O parts store and getting new lines made, or does anyone have a line on a good set of SS brake lines? Also, for the guy's that have done it, would now be the time to just say yeehaw and convert to hydroboost? Additionally, I'm going to play it safe, and do the calipers and drums as well. I have a line on a good set of drums and a parts kit, but for the life of me, I can't find the correct PN# for my 2WD dually calipers. If someone can give me a line on those too, I'd greatly appreciate it. Numbers in my manuals don't exist, and I'm trying to not resort to calling Ford and paying some jacked-up prices on stuff, or something from the local pick-n-pull with questionable age or condition. Luckily it's a manual, or I'd be writing this from a police station, or sitting in my truck inside the neighbors house waiting for them to show up.
4. A few minor fuel leaks in my E-fuel build, but being able to stop is more important than leaking a bit of fuel right now at the post filter connection. After 2 years on the E-fuel build, I'd say I did a pretty good job on that build.
5. Looking at getting a T444E engine from my buddy in the local Caveman Diesel truck club (95 model rebuilt with 100k on it) and just swap the heart and everything I've done over to that and wait until I get to Washington to build my 97 motor I got from Jarrett. BTW man, thanks again!

SO I have a lot to do, and short time to get it done, or get a trailer and haul it up there with my other truck.

 

Hey John welcome back to the world! You might want to check the safety switch on the clutch peddle to make sure it is closing when you depress the clutch to start the engine. There are several places that can give you slack in the linkages. The plastic bushing on the drop arm is a good place to start.

 

I have a spare ignition switch you can try as well if you want. It's the white box under the dash that actually sends the signal to the ignition solenoid on the fender.

Make sure the solenoid on the fender is good, and that you are getting a 12v signal when the key is pushed to start. If you're getting 12v and it's not closing make sure the solenoid is grounded on the fender... just went through that myself lol

Have fun with the build and if all else fails, tote the old girl up there with the V10 lol

 

I know you have been planning this for a long time John, good luck with the project!

 

I just did reman front calipers and rear drums on my Dually this spring. Maybe I put model numbers for them in my build thread.

Either way the calipers are A1-Cardone from The Zone. Rockauto has piston boot kits w seals if you want to go that route. Drums are Duralast brand and rotors Raybestos. Pads and shoes Porterfield R4S.

Just wish I could find stainless braided hoses. I heard Crown Performance might!



Pretty certain LMC or the other truck catalog carries new, preformed brake metal lines.

 

Welcome back John! Time to get he ol' girl running right!!

 

Current level of progress. Redneck style. My core support was shot, but the donor was good. I just used a good enamel paint and made it black to give it style I'll worry about using good paint later on when everything will get repainted.


So far we have both blocks on the ground, currently swapping my accessories. This weekend I'll replace the rear main since it's already out of the truck, and then do a transmission shift tower rebuild as well, and get everything hooked back up. Should be able to get that done this weekend hopefully.

After that, I finally got a set of 4 gauges to check boost, fuel pressure, HPOP and EGT. That wiring bit will come later though.

With the field training and the crazy weather, work has been a lot slower. Just wish I had a shop, and i could do a bit at a time in the comfort of AC.

It was the injectors though, we drained the oil out of my old motor, and the first gallon or so was straight fuel. Probably a few other failures in the heads somewhere too, bottom end was clean, no scaring on the cylinder walls and everything was straight there. Rings were good and there was compression when it turned over by hand.

 

You got it!! So much more involved than my buddy and i thought.. Luckily for that, there is plenty of beer to keep the busted knuckle swelling down!! Haha

 

So I can't remember where i got mine, but they are pretty good quality stainless, and I'm going to put rubber coating on them to keep them alive for a long time to come. If I had the right fittings, I could build them out of AN line stainless braided, but with everything going on, a direct replacement is cheaper and faster to get me back on..
I'm also doing the ABS pump, and wheel cylinders along with drum hardware, drums and shoes later on
I need a lift for that though.


Jarrett, I'll grab the one from the donor truck to verify. But the fender solenoid was pretty rusty on the terminals. It fired over when I bridged the connections. So I'm leaning towards a bad ignition cylinder.. It's pretty loose as it is, and I found a good OE ford badged replacement that comes with the door lock tumblers. that operate on the same key. No more 2 key to get into and start the truck. Maybe 100$ for that. Thanks for the line on the ignition box though!!

 

Wow!

 

Yea, you're telling me. Been many years since I've had this truck running and driving. All I want to do is cosmetic stuff, and eventually I'll build the other block i have from Jarrett. Just to do it all one more time. And to answer the brake line question, I got them from fine lines.

Edit:

Don't get swayed by the picture. We are slowly going through the useable parts before we throw it on a trailer to take to the scrap yard. It's organized chaos, haha!!

 

inline tube has all the brake lines in SS.

 

Those look pretty nice. Shelby isn't too far from where I am in Louisiana either. Seems like calling them would be easier than trying to use their marketplace though.

 

Sometimes after a hard day's work swapping parts and buying a new clutch, you gotta go out and blow the power steering return line off, getting some mud on the 2WD.


Well, slow going. This rain really slowed us down. Took the old clutch off to reseal the retainer plate and put the new rear main in, and realized several friction disks were completely fragged. Good thing we noticed now rather than later. Cleaning grey RTV sucks. Thank goodness for actual gaskets that ford was too lazy to put in the first time.

One more weekend. So here's to a week of work until then.

 

The old gaskets were brittle, and cracked in some places. probably a symptom of the oil seeping out over the years.

Resealing the transmission while it's on the ground. I don't know how it hadn't burned up, there was no oil in the case. Got some mercon5 ready to go in after its back in the truck. Will make sure to flush the first quart to get any debris and old oil out.

Resealed the retaining plate and a new rear main. It was a major PITA without the tool, but rubber persuasive hammer and a block of wood made the job worth not buying a 320$ tool to drive the new wear ring.

Sealed up the oil pan with new RTV and new motor mounts. I didn't go overboard with the RTV, but that oil on the ground was where the drain plug dumped out another 2 quarts of oil after it had been lying on the ground for a week. Little added insurance was i made a gasket to go under the dipstick flange. On the outside of the pan. and used red loctite when I tightened it all up.

Motor went in last night, still have to finish wiring everything, accessories need put on etc. But it's not on the ground anymore. And the hardest part will be making sure all these bolts find their right home..

Been a long weekend. A long time coming, but the work only stops for the rain.. At least working under the truck won't slow us down too much. New flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch. Upgraded to the single mass 13" clutch pack and hopefully the transmission can go on today before the work grind starts again. Can't wait to finally have a powerstroke that isn't riddled with issues!!!

Last step will be the core support we cut out, got a newer one, welded up the cracks and gave it a rust protection spray job. Next weekend will be a rush to get it all done and buttoned up for a test drive.