While in traffic yesterday my '63 F250's z-bar pin sheered clean off - from both mounts - effectively leaving me gears 1 & 2 to move old Gertrude back home; where she's resting peacefully awaiting my attention. (See images below)

I've done some research last night / this morning and am not finding what I'm looking for, so I'll pose questions here...

Question #1: What's the part number for the through bolt? (My quick fix to get back on the road.)

and,

Question #2: Looking things over I'm considering a complete swap-out of the linkage from the T98 up the clutch pedal. For those who have done this... I'm looking for a parts list and/or diagram and threads on the same. I assume same/similar year F100 linkage diagram is sufficiently similar?

Thx in advance!

 

Both of those brackets that connect to the frame and engine that the z-bar pivots on - I do not see any of those NOS at the vendors or on eBay. I'm not sure if those are reproduced or not, but if not then used might be the only other option.

Frame Bracket Assembly
C3TZ-7507-C

I'm assuming the engine side one is the same 223/262. They don't list the 262 in relation to this part in either 1963 or 1964 in the MPCs that I have.
Engine Bracket Assembly
C1TT-7A572-E

Chad

 

There is one of the Z-bars at Green Sales. At least they show one in stock.

C3TZ-7528-B

https://www.rearcounter.com/C3TZ-7528-B-parts47823.html

Chad

 

Thx Chad! Much appreciated.

Question, based on an ND post from a few years back of the 61-64 F100/F250 "Clutch Parts (Mechanical)- Typical", does it even have a pin? Looks like the two mounts have miniaturized "ball joints"; per parts 7A572 & 7507 below...?

 

I've been repairing the set up on my '64 F-250. It has the ball joint type. Do a search on ebay for "1964 ford truck z bar" and see what comes up.
LMC has some parts. More for "66 and up.

 

Welder time?

 

They must have been having problems with the ball type in the earlier years. In 1965 they went to the larger pin and separate replaceable nylon ball. This bracket is for a 1965 F100/250 4x4 or 1966 F250 4x4 but the 2x4 trucks used a different bracket with similar pin.

C5TZ-7507-B - Clutch Release Equalizer To Frame Bracket Assembly - Approx. 5 1/4" x 2 1/8" - 1 each



C1AA-7543-A - Clutch Release Equalizer Shaft Ball - .994" O.D. - .631" I.D. - 1/2" thick - 2 each

 

Galloping Gertrude is back in action thanks to the metalworking assistance of a good friend and neighbor!!

My originals brackets from my '63 F250 were cleaned up, resurfaced, welded, and coated. A fabulous job! Thx Mike!!

Things I've learned along the way...

1. The clutch slowly degraded over the last year becoming more difficult to 'find gears'. THAT should have been an indicator to take a look at the linkage instead of just complaining about shifting difficulties. I *believe* that my wait resulted in the second ball sheering off as one of the two had surface rust while the second was a clean break.
2. Have an entire socket set ready! 4 bolts used 3 separate sized socket sizes. Why, I don't know. (Still scratching my head on this one...)
3. Wrt install, don't do what I initially did and install the brackets prior to the zbar. It simply won't fit; not at least on my '63. Note: I can't speak to your application, but the diagrams seem to tell the same tale for 100s/350s. Although the frame-side bracket does indeed have elongated mounting holes, these are apparently for tensioning the z, not for allowing sufficient clearance to install.
4. Be sure to setup a drop tray! I don't have enough fingers to count the number of dropped bolts, sockets, retaining pins. And, they're sooooooo much more recoverable when they drop into a tray - not onto the grass. ;-D
5. Pack-fill the bar ends with grease prior to installing the brackets and then fill the zbar again through the grease nipple until grease overflows the tube ends. Grease is good. For zbar lubrication, grease is really good. Be sure to use lots-o-grease.
6. Retaining pins in both the clutch pedal assembly and the clutch actuating arm are, well... complete sons-of-bitches to remove and, at least with mine, made from >50 yr old metal that desperately needs replacing. Do yourself a favor and replace them.
7. Go ahead and replace the clutch actuating arm tensioner spring while the clutch assembly is disassembled. Trust me, its much easier that way and, if like mine, yours is >50 yrs old, it needs to be replaced anyway. Just say'n.

Lastly, a few pics of the brackets. (Tomorrow I'll grab a few pics of the assembly reconstructed.)

 

Nice save.

 

Nice job.
I had to do the same thing for my 81 F100 with a 300 six as they no longer make the motor side pivot.
That side on mine screws into the block.
Mine was in really bad shape to start with. A little welding, grinding and hand filing got mine working again.


All back together worked for maybe 12 times and it broke the threaded part off.

So you get creative, get a bolt that will thread into the block, cut and shape and weld it to the ball part.

I know its for an 81 but doing it this way can work for any year truck just takes a little time to "mold it" right for the bushings to fit back on.
Dave ----