Franken Clutch
#1
Franken Clutch
Yesterday my clutch started getting really soft, to the point where it was difficult to shift, and it would grind when I put it in reverse. When I got home, I looked at all of the linkage and noticed that the PO made this terrible bracket to mount the z bar to the bellhousing. The angle of the z bar is terrible and the bracket was cracked and bent, causing my lack of clutch.
What I need to know is the correct way that the z bar is supposed to mount. I've seen the diagram but I don't quite understand how it mounts and what part I need. If someone could snap a photo of their correct linkage and possibly what the part is, I would really appreciate it.
I've posted a photo of my jerry-rigged linkage. I greatly appreciate any help.
-Seth
What I need to know is the correct way that the z bar is supposed to mount. I've seen the diagram but I don't quite understand how it mounts and what part I need. If someone could snap a photo of their correct linkage and possibly what the part is, I would really appreciate it.
I've posted a photo of my jerry-rigged linkage. I greatly appreciate any help.
-Seth
#2
What is your application? 1962 f100 with 223?
See if this exploded parts diagram helps at all. Upper left is particular to F100 and F250. I don't own anything but 1966, but I have the 1957-1963 MPC and could look up parts numbers if you see something you need. Just say what part numbers. Like 7507.
See if this exploded parts diagram helps at all. Upper left is particular to F100 and F250. I don't own anything but 1966, but I have the 1957-1963 MPC and could look up parts numbers if you see something you need. Just say what part numbers. Like 7507.
#3
#4
#5
358979-S is Washer (felt) - 1 3/8" O.D. - 23/32" I.D. - 9/32" thick
358979S | RearCounter.com | 28 found at 4 sellers
Or on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...979-S&_sacat=0
#7542 - Clutch Release Equalizer Bar Retracting Spring Bracket
Full part number for '63 F100 2WD could be
C1TT-7542-E or possibly F, but either way I don't see any available NOS or on eBay at this time.
#6
Z bar on CL Sacramento
I found this on CL says it's for a 61 to 67. Bracket mounts to bell housing. Says it was bolted to an FE. Z bar and bracket.
I don't know if it will work on a 6. Maybe the bracket will work?
30 bucks, price is right if anyone else needs one.
Ford FE Z-Bar and bracket 61-67 FORD FE CL ad
Cheers,
I don't know if it will work on a 6. Maybe the bracket will work?
30 bucks, price is right if anyone else needs one.
Ford FE Z-Bar and bracket 61-67 FORD FE CL ad
Cheers,
#7
Hmm the bracket looks similar to what I already have, just can't figure out the correct mounting for it.
I also decided to take a look at the pressure plate and disc. I'm not sure, but I think my disc may be on it's last leg? I haven't done a clutch before, but by looking at it I'm assuming that the springs on the pressure plate move as the disc wears? Right now I'm thinking that the springs have reached their maximum length and therefore adding to my shifting problem.
When I pull on the clutch fork I don't see any movement. I've gone ahead and attached a couple photos for reference. I really appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Seth
I also decided to take a look at the pressure plate and disc. I'm not sure, but I think my disc may be on it's last leg? I haven't done a clutch before, but by looking at it I'm assuming that the springs on the pressure plate move as the disc wears? Right now I'm thinking that the springs have reached their maximum length and therefore adding to my shifting problem.
When I pull on the clutch fork I don't see any movement. I've gone ahead and attached a couple photos for reference. I really appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Seth
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#8
As the disc wears down your clutch can start slipping when it is engaged, but pushing on the clutch pedal should still push the fingers of the pressure plate and move it away from the disc just fine. If not, the fingers themselves are worn also or the throwout bearing or possibly yoke/fork isn't disengaging it fully.
A worn clutch disc shouldn't affect shifting when the clutch is disengaged since the disc is taken out of the equation at that point.
A worn clutch disc shouldn't affect shifting when the clutch is disengaged since the disc is taken out of the equation at that point.
#9
Thanks, I guess I'll drop the tranny and pull everything off to get a better idea of what's going on. When I pull on the fork, simulating pushing the clutch pedal, there's hardly any movement in the fingers of the pressure plate.
I'm also still dealing with figuring out how to properly mount this z bar bracket, if anyone has any idea how it's supposed to fit I would really appreciate any guidance. I've attached a photo of what it looks like with everything off. The two holes on the bell housing are too far apart for it to work, and then on the block there's only one threaded hole. Again, its a 63 223
Thanks,
Seth
I'm also still dealing with figuring out how to properly mount this z bar bracket, if anyone has any idea how it's supposed to fit I would really appreciate any guidance. I've attached a photo of what it looks like with everything off. The two holes on the bell housing are too far apart for it to work, and then on the block there's only one threaded hole. Again, its a 63 223
Thanks,
Seth
#10
Your clutch disc looks pretty new from the pic. If it wasn't slipping or chattering I wouldn't worry about it.
You can't move the pressure plate by just pulling on the arm. It takes a large amount of leverage to move it......there are like 12 coil springs in there under tension.
As for the bracket, you will probably have to fabricate one to work.
You can't move the pressure plate by just pulling on the arm. It takes a large amount of leverage to move it......there are like 12 coil springs in there under tension.
As for the bracket, you will probably have to fabricate one to work.
#11
Ok, here's the deal with your Z bar.....it looks like you may have the earlier bell housing(50's) in your truck. Those used a different type bracket.
The pic below shows what you should have......notice the "ear" with the 2 holes that sticks out? It is part of the bell housing casting. So you either need to find the early bracket or make one....
The pic below shows what you should have......notice the "ear" with the 2 holes that sticks out? It is part of the bell housing casting. So you either need to find the early bracket or make one....
#12
Thanks a lot for the help, Scott. Glad to know I'm not going crazy, and it's great to know where the bracket is actually supposed to mount.
Thinking that a decent mounting bracket might solve my issues, especially if you think the clutch looks good. Gonna get to work on engineering a new one
Thanks,
Seth
Thinking that a decent mounting bracket might solve my issues, especially if you think the clutch looks good. Gonna get to work on engineering a new one
Thanks,
Seth
#14
Sure looks like a natural place to mount the Z bar too........
#15
I will go out on a limb and say the majority of the issues with the original poster truck is all linkage related. When he mentioned the clutch getting "soft" it was likely that fabricated bracket bending or flexing. The disc in the pic looks OK. Before pulling too many things apart at once I would focus on the clutch linkage repairs and upgrades to the point you have a fully functional and adjustable clutch linkage. Go after dropping the trans if correcting your linkage doesn't do the trick. When you have a known problem, its best to fix that first before over-dignosing and pulling your hair out.