Another 6.0 bites the dust
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Another 6.0 bites the dust
Well have been chasing small issues that have recently turned into large issue. Been having low power at take off and puff of black smoke. Replaced an injector that failed balance test yet it did not solve my issue. So I went ahead and took it to a reputable shop that does a lot of work on diesels and is the biggest name around me for bulletproof work. They said I’m building pressure in my degas bottle and my gaskets are done for. I also removed the oil filler cap and I see smoke or steam coming out. It has started to smoke white some here and there so I guess it’s sad but true. 144k miles stock never tuned, granted I do drive her hard. So now I must face the Dilemma, sell her as is and take a loss. Or drop $3k and change to have her bulletproofed. I just have a hard time dropping that much seeing it is a salvage title. But the interior is perfectly mint and I do love the truck. I knew this was a risk buying a 6.0 but man I thought I’d have more time.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Nothing is bulletproof. You just bought it with a salvage title, so there’s no way to confirm its history of operation or maintenance unless it’s been a known truck since 2007. I’d think it got unloaded for a reason. But a 2007 in excellent shape without rust is worth putting $3-5k into to have a nice, good running truck, although what you paid may sour that perspective. It’s not like it needs an entire motor.
From the other thread, I’d be confirming the pressure in the cooling system first as it’s a simple and documented test. Excessive coolant system pressure or cylinder leakdown is the only way to confirm the headgaskets other then a visual inspection.
From the other thread, I’d be confirming the pressure in the cooling system first as it’s a simple and documented test. Excessive coolant system pressure or cylinder leakdown is the only way to confirm the headgaskets other then a visual inspection.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I didn't see where you disconnected the vgt actuator connector in your test, but the bubbles did relax, so I assume it is when you disconnected it.
Just as an fyi for future readers, here is a link to the BPD video on the test:
https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Articles.asp?ID=156
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=bC52wdRcr-A
Just as an fyi for future readers, here is a link to the BPD video on the test:
https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Articles.asp?ID=156
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=bC52wdRcr-A
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I rigged a similar tester from the fittings in my radiator vacuum fill kit. Works well, just haven't had an occasion to use it on a truck w/ a bad EGR cooler or leaking head gaskets. Hope I remain that fortunate for many years.
I wish I knew what the degree of accuracy was with this test. IMO it seems quite subjective. That said, usually you don't see useless stuff put out by BPD.
I wish I knew what the degree of accuracy was with this test. IMO it seems quite subjective. That said, usually you don't see useless stuff put out by BPD.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,762
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From: Jersey Shore
The water in bottle with tube to check for head gaskets I've known of and have used a few times over the decades, usually when I buy a used tractor. Often you don't the chance to put a tractor or other equipment through a long hot run, so it's a good check. You get some air on warmup from expansion, but its easy to tell with experience at home.
But I never thought of if discriminating between EGR cooler and HGs.
But I never thought of if discriminating between EGR cooler and HGs.
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Yeah I figure bpd knows their stuff so if they say it’s a good test I’ll roll with it. I’m still torn of to bullet proof it and drop some good coin. Or do the egr system delete and order this kit https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-60l...ff-plate-xd186
seems pretty easy with instructions. Big decision.
seems pretty easy with instructions. Big decision.
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Smh I fought the stupid turbo bolts for near two hours till I finally said f this and put it back together. I had enough at that point. So now it’s my debate spend the 4K to have it proofed or sell for a loss. I am leaning towards proofing it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Eastern PA
If the turbo bolts are giving you a problem, it's not lined up properly. Re-seat the turbo, jiggle it, etc. When it sits right, the bolts will go right in with ease. I attach the band clamp on the Y pipe first, then sit it in the turbo, then bolt the turbo down. I put the drain pipe in for the oil after the the turbo is in, it's a pain to wiggle it in, but the turbo goes in so much easier without it.