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Mystery squel

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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 01:06 PM
  #1  
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Mystery squel

I have a high pitch sequel / chirp that I thought was coming from an idler wheel or pulley bearing and has been on going for the last three summers. No one can figure it out. Happens when the fan kicks on high, consistent with high RPM's. Normally happens when pulling a hill towing my toy hauler. If I can stay around 2,200 RPM I can quiet it down anything above that it gets loud.
I've towed with my mechanic while he was hooked up to his computer everything seemed fine. replaced the cooling or clutch fan I believe (not familiar with what is up there )I have scuffed the pulleys and put on a gates green belt to make sure it wasn't slipping. It is at the tire shop now getting some new parts in the front end and they don't see anything wrong with it, or can get it to make any noise, but again it does it when its hot going up hill towing. Once the fan kicks off high it stops.

Any ideas?
thanks,
 
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 06:12 PM
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Jiggle the wiring going to the fan clutch (it's on top of the radiator shroud) and see if that is the same sound. If so, the only way to fix that is a new clutch. It's kind of a long shot but it's something to try.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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Perhaps a weak tensioner that is allowing the belt to slip under load?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by packagerjr
Perhaps a weak tensioner that is allowing the belt to slip under load?
This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^gets my vote.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by packagerjr
Perhaps a weak tensioner that is allowing the belt to slip under load?
thanks, I will have that checked. So far they are saying the fan and everything look fine.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Courtney Williams
thanks, I will have that checked. So far they are saying the fan and everything look fine.
Even the tensioner would LOOK fine but as stated above...it may be weak and letting the belt slip under load.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 01:05 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Mcrafty1
Even the tensioner would LOOK fine but as stated above...it may be weak and letting the belt slip under load.
What is the best way to check that? At this point (3 years) I feel like I will have to ask for something specific to be done to figure it out.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 04:48 AM
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From: 'Pitlock, Maine
Originally Posted by Courtney Williams
What is the best way to check that? At this point (3 years) I feel like I will have to ask for something specific to be done to figure it out.
I'm not sure if there is a technical way to check it, but if you grab the belt just below the alternator pulley (while standing by the right front wheel of the truck, you should find it extremely difficult to pull any amount of slack in the belt. Maybe someone can chime in with an accurate way to determine the actually resistance that it is suppose to require. like in PSI or the like. I know I'm not much help here, but that's all I got.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2018 | 11:44 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Courtney Williams
I have a high pitch sequel / chirp that I thought was coming from an idler wheel or pulley bearing and has been on going for the last three summers. No one can figure it out. Happens when the fan kicks on high, consistent with high RPM's. Normally happens when pulling a hill towing my toy hauler. If I can stay around 2,200 RPM I can quiet it down anything above that it gets loud.
I've towed with my mechanic while he was hooked up to his computer everything seemed fine. replaced the cooling or clutch fan I believe (not familiar with what is up there )I have scuffed the pulleys and put on a gates green belt to make sure it wasn't slipping. It is at the tire shop now getting some new parts in the front end and they don't see anything wrong with it, or can get it to make any noise, but again it does it when its hot going up hill towing. Once the fan kicks off high it stops.

Any ideas?
thanks,
Check your up pipe bellows and firewall heat shield for black marks. I have heard the y pipe can make a chirping sound if there is a small crack. You will also have high back pressure under that kind of load.


Richard

 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 11:09 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by DarkStarMedia
Check your up pipe bellows and firewall heat shield for black marks. I have heard the y pipe can make a chirping sound if there is a small crack. You will also have high back pressure under that kind of load.


Richard
Nothing I could find there, The squeal didn't happen when I towed this last weekend which was surprising as the temp was in the 100's, on the freeway on the way home my radiator blew apart.. Could it possible been that failing all these years?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 11:53 AM
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Dang, 100s in Idaho. I drove through there about this time last year and it was quite pleasant. City of Rocks was amazing. Sorry, no help with your question.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcrafty1
I'm not sure if there is a technical way to check it, but if you grab the belt just below the alternator pulley (while standing by the right front wheel of the truck, you should find it extremely difficult to pull any amount of slack in the belt. Maybe someone can chime in with an accurate way to determine the actually resistance that it is suppose to require. like in PSI or the like. I know I'm not much help here, but that's all I got.
That's how i take my belt off and put it on. it is not an easy feat, however i have NEVER been able to get the stupid breaker bar onto the pulley to release tension the easy way. It does take everything i have, plus some, to get that belt up on the alternator.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2018 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JaySVX
That's how i take my belt off and put it on. it is not an easy feat, however i have NEVER been able to get the stupid breaker bar onto the pulley to release tension the easy way. It does take everything i have, plus some, to get that belt up on the alternator.
I just pull on the belt and tap the position lock in to hold it. once you have the new belt on, give it a tug and the lock will release. DTR has a video on it. makes doing that part quicker than routing the new belt.

Richard

EDT:
Using this method I can swap an alternator in 10-15 minutes

EDT2: there are also deflection gauges you can use to measure belt tension. I think if someone has a FSM handy they can give you the spec, I dont know it off the top of my head.
 
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