ok i have a 2000 cclb 4x4 , 4 inch exhaust , 38r turbo, gauges, dp tuned, i have been towing my 7500 pound tow hauler empty around 9000 full , when i cruise around 70 mph mostly flat my egts are around 1000, will 160 30 injectors lower the egts, i get worried running 3 to 4 hours that long with the temp. that high. Also when cruising around 55 to 60 it will go in and out of overdrive will the extra power help with that? thanks.

 

Maybe a small amount but not much if you are going from stock to 160cc single shots bc you are adding fuel & not getting it injected fast enough with 30 percent nozzles. 30 percent nozzles arent much different than stock and can be run on tunes for 160s with stock nozzles. Fuel Injection Pulse Width is one of the keys to lower EGTs. 80 percent nozzles will do what you are looking for. Theyll get the fuel in sooner which will increase HP and lower EGTs. You will sacrifice a very small amount of low end torque but not much and the added HP will be very noticable over the 30 percent nozzles. 80 percent nozzles are still very easy to tune for a competent tune writer. if a tune writer says something different find a different tune writer---- 1023diesel.com has been doing a great job with 80s on 160s

 

Yeah... what PQH350 said.

 

do you mean toy hauler not tow hauler.. that is 5th wheel right?? basically a flying brick and at 70 mph a flying brick with a Coe of like 4.7 or so vs a Coe of .4 of a fighter airplane. (made est on my part.) maybe slowing down a bit will help.. I pull a 30 ft airstream and run 60-65 mph. My egts run some 4-700 can get up towards 900 or so on a i-95 interstate type road. not much hills other than over roads etc. Even with a DP 80 HP tow tune I put in overdrive and it never drops out. Stock exhaust for now, stock turbo with 5x5 riff wheel I am trying to change to the 4x4 Riff wheel. Trailer weighs about 8K loaded running on Michelins LT 16" tires. I put on cruise but when there is a bigish hill, like heading west in NC, will click it down a bit to keep egt and boost down.. I don't need to be the first guy up the hill when pulling a large trailer.

 

If I had to do it all over again, I'd go 160/80 rather than the 160/30 I have. But, FYI, IMO you at the 80% you are going to start to get "Mission Creep". Tuning, slightly more important with 80% over 30%. The additional power is going to take it's toll in other places as well. Trans and driveline come to mind.

I'm a little over 110k miles with my 160/30's. Cody did the tuning and I'd have to say, that I have no issues with EGT pulling this.

 

160/Stock and 160/30 are give you more power but they're limiting and not that much different from each other. If you go with 160/80 they are easy to tune and dial in correctly Just make sure you can feed them the air they need. A38R with Riffraff's Billet wheel or KC's 38R will do nicely.

 

I am with Dan on this one. I have 160/30 and if I ever do it again I will go 160/80. The 80% have a shorter pulse with which could lower EGTs over the 30%s. You could always de tune the 80s so they are more like a 30 but get the fuel out faster. However I do not think your 1000* temps are anything to worry about; If you want more power and want to spend $$, by all means go for it, but if it is just to lower EGT's I wouldn't go down that rabbit hole. Been there done that. Do things that will guarantee lower egt's. Mishimoto intercooler, Water/Meth injection etc.

 

In addition to my previous post, I'd also recommend better tuning. The PHP Hydra has made it easy to be able to try other tunes and see what works best for you. Gearhead and Tony Wildman of TDP are the two that are licensed for use of the Hydra along with it's creator PHP. Tuning has come a long way since the heyday of the vendor in bold. I once upon a time had their tuning, but moved to Gearhead after some serious tuning issues that almost destroyed my engine and transmission and have been so happy, Gearhead now tunes both my trucks.

 

I am very happy with my 160/80s.

It's a very expensive and (possibly) time-consuming rabbit hole...

My injector o-rings were leaking so it was time to replace them. We'll say the o-ring kit from Alliant is about ~$10/injector once it gets to my door so the parts cost for leaking o-rings starts at $10 if you know the offending injector and want to do just that one or $80 if you do all 8 as a preventive measure. Here's my "Mission Creep" adventure:

- If I'm pulling all the injectors why not get new ones at 305K miles. Bought new 160/80 injectors (I felt that remans were too much of a roll of the dice for me).
- Going under the valve covers. New valve cover gaskets and harnesses.
- I have to pull the glow plugs so new ones all around (they were original).
- Leaking injector cups. Replaced all 8.
- Coolant drain/flush/refill since I had to replace the injector cups.
- It's my daily driver so can't risk down time...bough a Hydra.
- Had to make sure I passed smog if I got caught with the Hydra...had my PCM flashed.
- Needed custom tunes. Bought tune bundles from 2 different vendors.
- Batteries died. New batteries.
- More power on tap. Bought traction bars to prevent driveline damage from "frisky" driving episodes (haven't installed yet).
- Needed more air to feed the injectors...bought S&B intake (already rebuilt the turbo a few years ago).
- Installed gauges (EGT, trans, boost, fuel) to monitor non-PCM items
- Run Torque Pro to monitor PCM items

Things I still have to do/watch: driveline (original u-joints), transmission (it's a stock 4R100), and every drop under the truck (I look every time I walk up to the truck and when I walk away). Who knows what new and curious leak I've developed (I currently have 3 leaks I'm chasing...2 related and one unrelated to the engine).

Cha-freakin'-ching! Granted some was self-imposed but some was either work found once I opened it up or replaced things that were 14 years old that may (or may not) do so well once disturbed and re-installed. That's the big stuff I did and doesn't include all the small things or tools I had to get to perform the work (e.g. Mityvac with various pieces to evacuate the cylinders).

With stock sticks I could drive my truck and only have to monitor a parameter or two and have fun. Now that it's putting out a lot more it requires more attention on my part. Depending on the tune depends on how much I'm watching my gauges. I was considering a 38R but changed my mind. I'm not interested in higher-than-normal pressures (boost, ICP, etc.) as I do want this block to last me until 500K.

To do this I've come up with my personal "Rule of Three" that I'm going with for now. That means no more than: 3ms PW, 3000 psi ICP, and 30 psi boost.

 

I agree with Toreador on the 1000* issue. It's a non-issue. Combustion makes heat. You are a couple hundred degrees below anything approaching a problem.

 

I would like to think there's a reason that my the ISSPRO EGT gage is green until 1050F and doesn't go red until 1250F.

 

thanks guys i will look into 160 80 , i do have tractions bars already and looking into a build trans soon ,

 

Before jumping in and pricing anything specific I recommend you call some injector and tuning vendors and talk with them. They have a lot of experience with different setups and might be able to give you some recommendations to mull over.

I was dead-set on single shots for years. When it was time to pull the trigger I did a LOT of research. I heard some compelling arguments for hybrids which made me consider them but in the end I got 160/80 single shots. I learned a lot during my research that I hadn't considered before so it was almost by dumb luck that I ended up with the injectors I had been dreaming of. I already has some things in place which allowed me to make the single shot decision. Had my truck been set up differently when it was injector time I might have gone a different route.

You can read about all of our experiences and find out what we liked or didn't. These are mostly personally biased. Some are happy with stock injectors with a T4 setup for the turbo, some are happy with hybrids, and some are happy with single shots.

Injector shops and tuners have worked with multiple setups and can tell you what worked well and what didn't for certain applications as well as customer satisfaction. Each vendor you talk to will have brands that they prefer to work with or have had better success with so ask about that too.

Whatever you do make sure it will be "compliant" with any state inspections/smog check requirements you might have.

Just my .02