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So I have been getting a humming/buzzing sound from my front left when taking left hand curves at speed.
I dug into the front end and the front left axle stub is pretty sloppy? (Video attached)
i found what seemed to me that the snap ring was not in the groove so I revoked it, cleaned everything up and put it all back in, in the same order. Pried the axel out to be sure the snap ring was in place. As I checked the axle spin, I saw the sloppiness. It looks like the two piece seal at the end of the axle housing has fallen apart. so I assume this it the issue of my sound. Either way, it is I trashed and needs replaced.
Anyway...... I looked in a few places for the seal and I get Axle Seal, Knuckle Seal, Outer Axle Seal. I looked at some threads here and the part numbers I find do not show as a match for my truck...WTH!!! Halp !! Got to have her back together for Monday morning.
Any help with the real part numbers or name?
Thanks all!
here is the link to the video. Only way I could figure how to get it on here.
Stub shaft (Spicer 2002692) and needle bearing (SKF B2110). The seal is not your problem and the floppy one will end up floppy again because it's a poor design.
Whatever play IS NOT due to the bearing will be taken up when the locking hub is installed as it keeps the splined end centered at the end.
Stub shaft (Spicer 2002692) and needle bearing (SKF B2110). The seal is not your problem and the floppy one will end up floppy again because it's a poor design.
Whatever play IS NOT due to the bearing will be taken up when the locking hub is installed as it keeps the splined end centered at the end.
I dont remember seeing that bearing when I replaced the ball joint and the bearings.... The axle itself doesn't look worn but I will take my calipers to it and measure to be sure.
Where is that bearing located at?
Stub shaft (Spicer 2002692) and needle bearing (SKF B2110). The seal is not your problem and the floppy one will end up floppy again because it's a poor design.
Whatever play IS NOT due to the bearing will be taken up when the locking hub is installed as it keeps the splined end centered at the end.
Holy crap! Now what?!
So I pulled the bearing assembly and the pulled the axle... The seals definitely need to be replaced. Axle shaft checks out within tolerance HOWEVER...WTH! No Thrust washer. The one with the 4 grooves between the bearing and the axle housing. Not there. Nothing. WTF?
Unless it fell and rolled away somewhere, that I missed, that damn thing is gone. I will have to go crawl around and see if I can find it or get another.
Other than that... Bearings are good. Plenty of grease and no metal shavings. Cleaned it all up and will replces the grease I took out and cleaned the hub and will soak it in tranny fluid before reassembling.
But I still didn't see where that bearing you listed goes. It looks too small to be the INNER axle bearing.
Oh geez! I don't know how long he let his go but mine look like new still! WOW How could you not get those changed before they dried out and shredded themselves. It is good to know thos that you can use those to replace the needle bearings instead of the whole thing.
Any who...yeah...my bearings are still good.no shavings.
So new seals ordered...needed em anyway...and.... Ok So I am going to hit up O'Reilly's and see about those bearings... Will get a set to keep on hand or may just knock out the old and in with the new since I already have it all torn apart.... Nice to see that you have the option or replacing just the needle bearings instead of the whole assembly now.
OK All seals replaced, new o-rings on the hubs, and I love how easy it it to replace the bearings in the assembly. Especially when ya got a 20 ton shop press!
So the "hum" on curves at speed has reduced a lot! BUT...there is still a little there. So with 336K miles on my truck, I assume I should start pricing out out axle stubs..???
Thoughts?
Thanks everyone for the info! Especially the bearing replacement! Saved me a few bucks!
If you had it apart and found no damage, why spend money on stub shafts?
Easy test. Lock the hubs and drive it. There is no relative movement between the axle bearings and axle shafts when the hubs are locked.
Sure it's not your tires?
That's why I asked. I know a whole lot about this truck but I will never claim to know everything. I will lock the hubs and check it out. But I can say tho after replacing the bearings there is a lot less movement with the axle.even with the hub still out.
I don't see any obvious wear or damage on the stubs, and the section where the bearings ride is just a hair larger than the axle just past it. Not sure though how much larger it should be.
The other reason I ask about the stubs is the old girl has 336K miles on the clock. Some thing just need to be replaced and I hate waiting for a breakdown to find out.
As for the tires....possibly! They are going to be replaced before this winter.as there is just shy of 1/4 inch tread left so about 1/8 inch above the wear bars. I am running all terrains and was thinking of adjusting the air pressure to see if it changes the behavior any on curves. I am running load rating E tires but since I only haul about once a month, I run them at 55 PSI. 65 if I am going to haul the horse trailer of flatbed loaded with hay.
Maybe it is the lugs on the edges making the noise? Not sure yet.
Oh geez! I don't know how long he let his go but mine look like new still! WOW How could you not get those changed before they dried out and shredded themselves.
I have that t-shirt. I never "let mine go" but there is no way to check them unless you pull the hub off which is not a practical evolution on a regular basis. I used to grease them up as much as they would hold whenever I removed/replaced a hub (never did the ABS hole grease thing).
I had a low rumble that I chased for a long time. Long story short: it was my needle bearing drying out and coming apart. The needles ended up "locking" the stub shaft which damaged my inner oil seal. Not a cheap fix for a $10 bearing going south. Now I don't worry about that any more.
As for the part numbers sometimes I go to the dealership and get a price estimate to "take home and discuss with my wife" then price them on-line. You can also cross-check some part numbers to other brands (SKF, Timken, etc.). I usually go Spicer for front end parts and can find them at various websites (Drivetrain America, Quad 4x4, Denny's Driveshafts, etc.)
I have found that if you do a search for B2110 on the part store websites, they have them in stock. But you have to use that part number.
Correct. It is not listed as a replacement bearing for the hub. They are considered a non-serviceable item so a parts guy will not be able to look it up or cross-reference it. You have to specifically order/ask for it.
I can say without a doubt that it works as I have removed a damaged one (not an easy task) and pressed in a replacement B2110 needle bearing in my hub.
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