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uggghh axle probs

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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 08:08 PM
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uggghh axle probs

whats up y'all. should axle shaft and half axle(stub axle) be able to move up and down, side to side, and in and out just by hand when the truck is parked just by grabbing the u-joint and knuckle? Its a 92 350 so I'm pretty sure its a dana 60 axle it has 8 lugs. I first noticed some vibration couple weeks back kinda like a rumble strip then it was quiet for a while but I'm pretty sure somethings totally shot but don't know what. Is it the bearings in the hub? or a seal or maybe a part I don't know about. I've already replaced the ball joints on this truck so I've had the hub assembly apart. I want to just replace every bearing and seal. one thing I couldn't figure out with the bearings was when you first take the hub off one bearing comes right out but the inner I don't know how to get out of the hub even after separated from rotor. think there is a tool I need. anyway if someone could tell me what they think it might be or if that axle play is normal AND how to replace the bearings and seals on this axle and any special tools I might need or knows a video or website. any input would be welcome id rather replace those cheap but hard to get to parts my self!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 10:08 AM
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There's a bearing inside the spindle that locates the outer axle. To get it out you need to take the spindle off. It's been a long time since I've replaced that bearing, so I don't recall exactly how it comes out. You might be able to drive it out with a long punch coming in from the outer end of the spindle, but I'm thinking you'll need some sort of puller coming in from the inner end. There will also be a seal that goes in after the bearing.

That bearing locates the inner end of the outer axle. The locking hub locates the outer end. If the U-joint moves up and down or forward-backward one or both of those bearings are likely the problem.

The U-joint moving in-and-out could be normal (there's definitely some freeplay there). Or there could be an issue with the locking hub or the snap ring that goes on the end of the axle shaft after the locking hub is installed.

To get the inner wheel bearing out you need to get the seal out first. There are seal pullers you can get that work better, but usually you can pry it out with a big screwdriver too. Once the seal is out the bearing will drop right out. That won't have anything to do with the axle shaft being loose, but while you've got it apart you really ought to repack the wheel bearings, so you need to get that bearing out. And you'll need a new seal when you put it back together.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Nothing Special
To get the inner wheel bearing out you need to get the seal out first. There are seal pullers you can get that work better, but usually you can pry it out with a big screwdriver too. Once the seal is out the bearing will drop right out. That won't have anything to do with the axle shaft being loose, but while you've got it apart you really ought to repack the wheel bearings, so you need to get that bearing out. And you'll need a new seal when you put it back together.
My method to remove the seal is place the hub/rotor on the bench with the outer end pointing up. Place the spindle nut socket upside down inside the hub, so it's on top of the inner wheel bearing. Install an extension into the socket, then strike with a hammer. One or two firm blows usually pops the seal and bearing right out, unscathed. I've been able to reuse seals over many times doing this.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 07:51 PM
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yeah thanks that definitely worked. put the spindle socket on the bearing from the outside and dropped a sleggo on it a couple times and it fell right out. Should I change the races??

Now if I can get that axle bearing out of the spindle ..

Also just noticed I think my manual locker is broken on the bad side. after you take off the Allens and the 1 Philips screw and snap ring the big gear thing that comes out is broken from the inner part. its one piece on the drivers and two pieces on the passenger. what does this mean? will I not have full 4wheel?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
My method to remove the seal is place the hub/rotor on the bench with the outer end pointing up. Place the spindle nut socket upside down inside the hub, so it's on top of the inner wheel bearing. Install an extension into the socket, then strike with a hammer. One or two firm blows usually pops the seal and bearing right out, unscathed. I've been able to reuse seals over many times doing this.
Cool trick!

Originally Posted by rortiz156
yeah thanks that definitely worked. put the spindle socket on the bearing from the outside and dropped a sleggo on it a couple times and it fell right out. Should I change the races??

Now if I can get that axle bearing out of the spindle ..

Also just noticed I think my manual locker is broken on the bad side. after you take off the Allens and the 1 Philips screw and snap ring the big gear thing that comes out is broken from the inner part. its one piece on the drivers and two pieces on the passenger. what does this mean? will I not have full 4wheel?
If the bearings and races are smooth you can just clean them and repack the bearings. Or you can decide to replace them now while it's apart and you'll know they're new. I wouldn't replace just the bearings though. If you were planning to replace them I'd do the races as well.

I'm not sure what you mean about the possibly broken locking hub. Is there a piece that's suppose to be a full circle and is actually two semicircles? Pictures might help.

But if you have a broken locking hub that won't engage, then you have a 2WD truck (the front diff is probably open and will send all the power to the broken hub so it won't drive the other side). But hubs aren't that expensive or hard to change.

Also, as I said above, the locking hub locates the outer end of the outer axle, so a broken hub could be why your axle is loose. Although if it's been wobbling around I think I'd replace the spindle bearing too.
 
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