removing locking hubs
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton, NY
Ok, so I got the hubs off last evening. Wheee. It actually looked really good in there. Nice amount of grease on the axle and hub splines, and no corrosion or crud in there. But the locking hub is toast. After some diddling, I figured out how the hub works (sort of) and why it don't work. I doesn't work because its plastic crap. When you turn it to the 'auto' position, the plastic mechanism in there thats supposed to back off and allow the female portion of the hub that rides on the axle to spin freely, don't. The best I could get it to do was back off partly, allowing the hub to spin, but it was ratcheting. So I left it in the locked position, until my WARN hubs come.
So, next question for curiosity sake.
How does the esof work? I understand it's vacuum actuated, but I can't figure out how the vacuum line that runs out to the backside of the hub locks it up. Anyone?
Thanks,
-Shawn
So, next question for curiosity sake.
How does the esof work? I understand it's vacuum actuated, but I can't figure out how the vacuum line that runs out to the backside of the hub locks it up. Anyone?
Thanks,
-Shawn
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
The vacum pulls on the hub to cause it to engage. the whole axle gets a vacum thats y if there are bad seals you loose your vac.
SMB if you can't cruize around without your hubs in then you probably have a bad bearing. Just take em out and run in 2wd. Or make sure you have both hubs locked not just one you could do damage to the diff
SMB if you can't cruize around without your hubs in then you probably have a bad bearing. Just take em out and run in 2wd. Or make sure you have both hubs locked not just one you could do damage to the diff
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