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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Coil position

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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 05:36 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
When I take the red wire from center of solenoid and jump to ground bolt on starter, starter turns. Put them back together and the other red wire goes from terminal block to one side of push button. So the other side of the push button must be wired wrong,
Correct, the button is wired wrong. Remove the button switch wire from the ignition switch and ground it. You should be good to go.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 05:49 PM
  #32  
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If I wired the ignition switch wrong, and the truck starts but won’t stop by turning key off, the best way to stop the engine?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 06:00 PM
  #33  
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From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA

 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 06:08 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
If I wired the ignition switch wrong, and the truck starts but won’t stop by turning key off, the best way to stop the engine?
Pull the big wire out of the center of the coil with insulated pliers or such, otherwise you might get zapped.
I know you have a fire extinguisher handy.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 06:21 PM
  #35  
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That’s why I was asking because Yes, I have been zapped before.

On one one of my tractors, I took the - side off the battery got the shi* knocked out of me and the tractor kept running. Finally ended up choking it to death
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 06:37 PM
  #36  
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From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
That’s why I was asking because Yes, I have been zapped before.

On one one of my tractors, I took the - side off the battery got the shi* knocked out of me and the tractor kept running. Finally ended up choking it to death
Yes, you could slap a board over the carburetor, but I was assuming you have an air cleaner installed. You can also cut the small coil wire that goes to the ignition switch without getting zapped.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 07:29 PM
  #37  
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From: Heuvelton, NY

As MixerMan mentioned, I pulled the wire off as he showed above, grounded it and starter turned over. Fiddling around I noticed if the side of the push button touched the hole it goes in just right, it would turn the starter too. Ok have to fix that.

I was able to get the ol girl running and shut it did shut off with the key. Then the engine flooded and would not start. I noticed the glass bowl was completely full, I could hear gas dripping inside. Time to take carb off and clean it using my 10 quart ultrasonic cleaner. Maybe buy a carb rebuild kit. I think I will replace fuel pump while I’m at it too.

Thank you so much for all the help.

Other good news today, my sister who lives in OH picked up 4 5x8 rims close to her and is delivering them to me in Pittsburgh when I’m down there this weekend. Now I just need to buy 2 more rims, and six tires. Also sold the tractor today that I wanted to sell to pay for the truck. Even Steven there. What a difference one day can make.

Thanks again guys.


 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 07:52 PM
  #38  
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Heyyyyyyy!

Glad you're up and running. And stopping,
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 07:57 PM
  #39  
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The engine is a 215 with Holley carb.

MACS has a rebuild kit listed for a 1952-1959 Holley 1bbl 6 cylinder 215 and 223. I think this is the right one. Anyone know what bbl is?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #40  
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From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Originally Posted by HVFDFIREFIGHTER1618
The engine is a 215 with Holley carb.

MACS has a rebuild kit listed for a 1952-1959 Holley 1bbl 6 cylinder 215 and 223. I think this is the right one. Anyone know what bbl is?
Bbl is the abbreviation for barrel. A barrel of oil equals 42 gallons (not to be confused with a 55 gallon drum). In this case it's a colloquialism for the throat of a carburetor.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2018 | 01:28 PM
  #41  
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I would buy your carb kit from Daytona and not Macs.

JB
 
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