Hey Byron. This wasn't planned. I'm almost positive i have the same problem as Glenn. Some upgrades may happen now though means the motor is out. You can check on my engine build thread if you wish. Good to see ya.

 

You too Darrin! I'll definitely check it out. Sorry to hear you're having a string of crappy luck as well.

 

Glenn,



Really sorry to read this and see that picture. I am also curious like others if that oil jet is still on the underside.

Glad you found your motor. Did you not pull your rods/ARPs etc off the old one before coring it back?

I’d be very curious to see what change in manifold pressure you see with a tight motor being new. I bet there will be a seat of the pants difference as well.

Agree with dumping the oil at 100 miles, and driving it hard at at varying rpm. Everyone has their own method. Outside of cam break in on certain motors, every engine I have ever broken in being diesel of a 1000cc 15k rpm bike motor we heat cycle a few times on a dyno, or down the road, and run the hell out of it. Previous advice is all agreed upon, and yes I’m a 100 mile 250 mile 500 mile 1000, 3000 till 10k and then 5-7k on synthetic, unless it’s a race motor. If your going to have to go down the warranty road 9/10 it will be within 1-3k miles.

On the turbo, don’t put that thing back in, a new shaft is all you need, and I have seen much worse on the turbine side before. How did the valves look on that cylinder? Yes a 366 or 369 will both work for you just fine IMO, I’m sure James has already set you up. Run a .92 exhaust housing on the 369 with stage 1s, spools the same as stock IMO. I’m a fan on it on the 366 too, as the lag with a bigger housing on the 160s seems has negatively impacted EGTs IMO, its reverse thinking but building up heat and excess fuel before it lights gets it too hot at 2-2500. I actually have James 369 off his 6.0 on mine.

Regarding the water injection. I am going to be the black sheep in the group and say I highly doubt that was attributed to the water. I have ran it nearly 400k miles now and when pulling big weight as you do, I burn a half gallon of water for every gallon of diesel when pulling heavy. My atomizer is right before the y post 90 degree bend in hopes of laminar air flow, and if I remember correctly I’m running a much larger nozzle than you were. I posted the calculation a while back with the flow rates of our heads, taking atmospheric air at 100 degrees under the hood( likely much hotter) and compressing up 15-40lbs of boost at my elevation, and at “high” elevations. Your intake temperatures are between 250-300 degrees. That water hits that and not only cools but also in an atomized form is a vapor before it even hits the cylinder. So IMO washing a cylinder or causing damage is fairly unlikely, and more along the lines of driving through Havana in a rainstorm… But for good measures, take it off, get your tuning pulled back a little bit and with a new turbo you shouldn’t have EGTissues.

I wish I would have known about the block. I have 6 sitting in the shop, and really don’t need six and would happily have sent one out for the Christmas in the summer feast. They are not fresh but I wouldn’t hesitate to toss any of them in my truck tomorrow without a worry. All low mile or high compression donors.

I’m in the same boat, I’m building another motor, but this time for black and blue this winter. Truck has been thoroughly abused in the pulling department and in the last 18 months has ran 127k miles literally pulling all of it… trailer hasn’t been unhitched in a half year. I am waiting any day now to window the block, as it runs hard and hot and I’m not really sure if that 1250 rule was followed for quite some time now. The big difference I read about and I do not understand how guys claim to make 40+ lbs of boost on these trucks with singles and can tune under 1250. I have never seen it with anything outside of a hybrid injector. No matter the tuning or the tuner name, we have tried all of them, cutom tunes and whatever. I have never seen it, in my truck, or in customers…. 238s or 250s with big air yes, but not stage 1-2.5 singles….

Sometimes I wonder if that’s part of the problem… how the fuel is being delivered…

 

Good info Nick. Not trying to start an argument but I am one that can pull like you say shouldn't be. I have proven on this forum with video mine will hit 45-46lbs of boost with ones, and I have pulled 18k on a 5.5 percent grade at 70 in od at 40 lbs or a little over sitting right at 1250. My problem doing that is I can't keep up with my hpop. I hit 90 percent dc with a Terminator, and 70ish with my adrenaline. I haven't done that for a couple years as I quit running in my 140 tune because of the DC issues.

Now it's broke though, so maybe it's not such a good idea.

 

 

You did not come off like an azz at all, I just was saying that my truck actually did work quite well. And yes, I think I blew a piston too. Motor is out, Im about to go in the shop and start tearing it down.

That hill I was referring to is a mile long. The egts sat right at 1250 while I could just watch the DC climb, a 1211 would set and it would be bucking towards the top. I'm running php tunes setup for my truck. I have not sent them any numbers where they could adjust them, just running what they sent me. I generally run in the 100 tune now, but last year I went to Memphis and was running some big hills there and switched to the 60 as I set more 1211s. I've done all I could to make sure my truck had no exhaust/intake leaks, big exhaust with 4-5 inch downpipe, etc. Billet wheel from riffraff in my 366 bumped boost up about 5lbs. I really did every possible thing I could think of to lower my egts. I do not run water injection either. I thought about it but really didn't need it that bad. I also tried 2 different boost gauges to be sure it was right, and run an egt probe in each manifold.

 

Nike, They wouldn't pull the pan for me just to see about the oil cooling jet. Said it was a core and didn't want to mess with it. The valves looked OK that I could see. They put my ARP's, rods and springs on the new motor. Its going to be hard for me to do those kind of oil changes traveling from Omaha to Michigan but I'm going to try to do as many as possible. As it turned out this shop had a 366sxe in stock but I did talk to James Barder about it. He said to keep the 'other' housing and that later on I could switch stuff around to get a little more performance out of it. I'm a turbo idiot so I didn't follow him but will grab the stuff to take with me.

Thanks for the offer of a motor but being on the road your at the mercy of everybody. Even in this state park I'm over their 14 day rule out of every 30 days. The park ranger is very understanding and said don't worry about it. The shop is a mile and a half down the road and I walk there every day. The shop owner said that injector looked fine but it proved not to be. I hope Jim gets that injector here Tue so I can get gone!

 

I sure would like to give those a shot, to hold 1250 on any long sustained grade would be a nice change in aheavy tune...

Understood. Your new 366sxe will use the same exhaust housing, retain that. The exhaust haousing is the cest iron housing that is on the left when looking at the outlet of the compressor. The old style gen 2 and new sxe can use the same housing, just bolt it on....Unless you purchased one with the identical housing, and in that case you should be credited 150-200$ back. Hopefully they were fair on that turbo cost with you.

 

They changed out the housing before putting it back in and I kept the other one. They charged $50 more then James would which is fine because the shop had it in stock.

 

Not a bad cost at all!

 

Nick, you got a hydra? Maybe you can call them and give them my name to get the tunes I have? Just a thought, I'm not sure.

 

I'm not sure who the "they" are that you are referring to, but PHP quit dealing in custom tuning as of April 1.
I have been extremely happy with tunes from Brian at JeliBuilt. For what it's worth.

Glenn, I dropped it in the Express box myself, it should be there tomorrow.

 

 

I didn't know that Jim. Thanks for the info. I will be getting in touch with you soon about freshening my injectors. My stage ones were just a budget upgrade, means I had the same problem as Glenn I guess it's time to fully freshen them. I need to finish tearing mine apart and getting a plan for it first though.

Sorry Nick, guess that won't work.