Hi all.. long time reader first time poster.
I have a 93 aero 3.0 and the distributor seems to be making like a buzzing sound. I pulled the cowling and I felt it while running and it definetly seems clunky. Popping noises etc.. I replaced cap and rotor and that didn't help. (it needed it anyway) Their seemed like a lot of play in it when I moved it side to side where the rotor attaches. I drove it with the cowling off to see if I could hear the buzzing but it didn't happen then. (I'm in florida so only could drive it around so long as it got crazy hot in there after a bit) Of course after I put the cowling back on I heard it once and awhile. Its very intermittent. It sounds like a bearing dragging but it only does it for a few seconds at a time. It has no effect on how the engine runs tho. It runs great and only has 80k on it.
The big question is does the distributor even come out with the engine in the vehicle? If it does, is their any special trick to pulling it? How many times will I need to see a chiropractor after I complete the job?

Thanks in advance. Bill

 

I've never had to replace one on an Aerostar. Or any of my other Ford truck that have or had the 3.0 Sorry. My theory is that it happens to vehicles that extend the oil changes too far, but I digress.
But you WILL be using a Motorcraft replacement part, won't you? The aftermarket has a very bad record on this part.

 

Single bolt with wide washer at the base.

You will not find factory documentation on how to clock the rotor when re-installing, so listen up.
1) At the base of the distributor make a permanent-marker mark to establish the disty housing clocking versus the block. This is your advance-retard setting, which can have a dramatic effect on power and fuel consumption.
2) As you are removing the cap, mark on the housing where terminal 1 would line up.
2) Move the engine to TDC as shown on the harmonic balancer vs pointer up at the front end. The disty rotor will then be pointing approximately at either spark terminal 1 or directly away from terminal 1, in which case turn the crank one more revolution to the next/previous TDC.
3) Now observe more carefully the position of the rotor with respect to the housing. The tip flies by, right to left, and the trailing edge should be pretty darn near the terminal 1 mark. Permanent-marker mark the rotor tip clocking versus the housing, and/or take a picture of it.
4) Take the disty out. Because of the helical twist in the gear, the rotor will rotate as it is remove/installed.

I agree with your assessment -> shaft should not have side-to-side play, should be smooth rotation.
Headzup on whether a new disty comes with the o-ring at the seat.

 

use diesel Ford WSS-M2C171-F1, CK, CJ or CH rated oil 10w30 or 5w30 in the old distributor 3.0L Ford engines. Shafts and right angle gear set last much longer with the much higher antiwear additives in diesel oil. Once the cam distributor drive gear and distributor shaft gear teeth wear out, big $$$ replacement teardown.
also helps if it does not have roller lifters, less cam and lifter wear. makes the cam drive chain and gears also last much longer.
Motorcraft has diesel rated oils

 

I actually have another Aero that I'm junking so I can take it out of that but I don't know if it will come out with the engine still inside the vehicle.

 

This would be good except Ild be throwing the old dist away. Why would I want to mark it? Its bad.

Have you removed one from a Aero while the engine was still in the vehicle?
Anyway, thanks for the info. Still good stuff.

 

Wow.. good to know. I'll look into getting that oil. As for the distributor, I'm not sure where the wear is. Seems like its the top bearings but I wont know till I pull it.

 

Old or new, it would help you to correctly position the rotor when re-installing a distributor. If you're replacing it, I would still make the marks on the old distributor, and transfer the marks to the same positions on the new one.

Just in case you didn't know about changing a distributor: The position of the rotor will move about 30 degrees from where it was before pulling to the point where its gear disengages from the cam shaft. So you might want to mark that position as well to set its starting point when you're ready to actually put it into the engine. This makes the installation easier when you're trying to engage the cam shaft AND the oil pump drive shaft while trying to stab it into the engine.

I've never tried pulling one out of the engine while it's installed in the van, so I can't say if there is enough room for that.