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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 09:22 AM
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AC efficiency

I have a 91 ranger that I converted to 134 about 10 years ago. All components have been replaced (compressor, condenser, office tube, accumulator, evaporator and hose manifold). The system was evacuated for several hours down to -26 and it held that vacuum over night before it was recharged to the appropriate level. The manifold gauges show proper readings for current ambient temperature and altitude. My issue is that it just doesn't get very cold. It gets comfortable for the most part but I'd like to get it colder. Im thinking of insulating my evaporator housing and accumulator, adding an electric fan to the condenser, and possibly trying to upgrade the condenser from the serpentine design to a more efficient parallel flow if I can find one.

Does anyone have any suggestions on other upgrades I can do to make it more efficient or know where to get a parallel flow condenser?

thanks
 
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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 07:44 PM
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Depending on engine size, 30-36 ounces of refrigerant, 7-10 ounces of oil. Sounds like its new end to end --- what is it reading (F) at the ducts? And what part of the country -??
 
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Old Jul 4, 2018 | 01:18 PM
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It's got 33oz of 134 and 8oz of oil. I'm in NM at about 4500 feet. I'll need to re check the temp but it was high 40's if I remember correctly.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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Idea. if the correct charge was weighed in, and proper evacuation took place. Which you described, happened... I suspect invasive heat gain from the heater core. I had this issue and decided to bypass the heater core with a bypass valve that opens when I want it to. Does the truck have functional heat?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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Also, consider forgoing the orifice and installing a thermostatic expansion valve? I have done this, and it is a labor, but a worthwhile one for efficiency at idle, when airflow across condenser is at its lowest
 
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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 80'BUB
Idea. if the correct charge was weighed in, and proper evacuation took place. Which you described, happened... I suspect invasive heat gain from the heater core. I had this issue and decided to bypass the heater core with a bypass valve that opens when I want it to. Does the truck have functional heat?
Yes, the heater does work.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2018 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 80'BUB
Also, consider forgoing the orifice and installing a thermostatic expansion valve? I have done this, and it is a labor, but a worthwhile one for efficiency at idle, when airflow across condenser is at its lowest
I appreciate the suggestion. Do you know if the efficiency difference between the standard serpentine flow condenser vs parallel flow is significant enough to merit switching?
 
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