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2003 eatc self-test

 
  #1  
Old 04-03-2004, 01:55 PM
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2003 eatc self-test

I have a 2003 F-150 with electronic hvac. It comes on and blows hot or cold air appropriately but it will not cycle down to a lower fan setting or a cooler temperature. It goes full blast all the time.

I replaced the head but that didn't help.

I have searched the forum and found the instructions to do the self-test to a 2000 Expy but when I press off/floor simultaneously and then automatic it doesn't put my eatc into the self-test mode. It simply turns the unit on in the automatic mode.

I assume 2003 models have a different procedure for getting into self-test mode.

2 questions:
1) Is my problem a recognized common problem and if so what is it?
2) How do I get the EATC into self-test mode and what are the DTCs?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 04-03-2004, 11:12 PM
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Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4-32C (40-90F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler temperature) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent DTCs and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.
 
  #3  
Old 04-03-2004, 11:13 PM
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Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTC EATC (Hard) Self-Test Faults EATC (Intermittent) Run-Time Faults Description Action to Take
B1249 024 022/25 Blend door failure or short Go To Pinpoint Test A .
B1251 031 N/A A/C in-car temperature sensor (19D888) open circuit Go To Pinpoint Test B .
B1253 030 N/A A/C in-car temperature sensor (19D888) short to ground Go To Pinpoint Test B .
B1255 041 043 A/C ambient temperature (19E702) sensor open circuit Go To Pinpoint Test C .
B1257 040 042 A/C ambient temperature sensor (19E702) short to ground Go To Pinpoint Test C .
B1261 050 052 A/C solar radiation sensor (19E663) circuit short to ground Go To Pinpoint Test D .
U1073 N/A Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) invalid or missing data for engine coolant Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual ( OBDII , OBDII-Bi-Fuel LPG/CNG ).
U1341 N/A N/A Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) invalid data for vehicle speed Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual ( OBDII , OBDII-Bi-Fuel LPG/CNG ).
 
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Old 04-04-2004, 01:12 PM
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That's the info I had found from searching. Using this procedure I can't get it to go into test mode.

I've tried pushing off/floor simultaneously then letting them both go and then pushing auto. What happens then is the system comes on in auto mode.

I've tried pushing off/floor simul then while keeping them both depressed pushing auto and let all 3 up. Nothing happens. Push off/floor simul then push auto and keep all 3 depressed, nothing happens.

To make a long story short I've tried every combo of pushing these 3 buttons I can think of and it won't go into test mode. The fuses show good but I haven't tried them with a circuit tester yet.

If you're sure this is the method to get to test mode in 2003s then I'll get somebody more mechanically inclined to try it and see what he can do. Maybe I'm not holding my mouth right.

The problem I'm having is that when I try to use my electronic HVAC and I push Auto it comes on in heat mode and blows very hot air continuously. It doesn't get cooler as the inside temperature gets warm and the fan doesn't slow down automatically. I can manually turn the fan to lower speed but the temp stays hot. I can set the temp control on 70 and it'll keep blowing hot air till it gets 90 inside the truck.

It's still cool here so I've not checked out the AC in depth. As far as I can tell the only way I get the AC on is to use Max AC mode. Although the AC pump cycles on and off in defroster mode. The use of the temp sensor doesn't seem to turn on the AC but it's been cool here and maybe I'm just fooled.

I changed out the control unit and that didn't help. I suspect a blend door problem but does that effect the fan speed as well? Do these symptoms sound like blend door problems? Can I get at the blend door through the glove box as per the suggestions?

Would someone give me the URL to the blend door repair suggestions, please? I saw it while I was searching but I didn't keep the URL.
 
  #5  
Old 04-04-2004, 01:22 PM
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We havent seen broken blend doors on the 03, so it may be a bad blend door controller. It is fused as well. It may be a controller fault. I have replaced them and needed the NGS to get the control head and EATC module to clear the codes to get the new one working. Sometimes the control head is stubburn to get it to go into self test mode. You may want to try holding the off and floor buttons with the key off and then cycle on the key, then punch the automatic buttton... Ive had to use that trick a couple times.
I know that control head was no cheap item, so it may be least expensive to get the dealer diagnostic done. You dont have to have them fix it if you want to save labor expense, but the dealer diag may prove to be more valuable as you think about the cost of swapping parts in a guessing game.. IMHO

The controller is accessed under the dash at the center behind the cover plate. Its mounted just above the floor duct and on the bottom of the plenum assembly. It may also be a problem with the incar temp sensor. It could be unplugged or the air tube to it may be off.

Good luck.
 

Last edited by HomerWinzlow; 04-04-2004 at 01:25 PM.
  #6  
Old 04-04-2004, 07:45 PM
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Thanks.

Actually the part wasn't bad, I found it at a local junk yard for $50. I think he's got the rest of the parts as well. But I need to get the codes so I don't do a lot of unnecessary and difficult work.

The truck I have is a F-150 SB 2003 club cab Lariat and has only about 5K miles but it was wrecked. Insurance paid off $34K and it had 200 miles on it. The truck nosed into a deep ditch partly filled with water and also the windshield was broken out. So it got some water under the hood and behind the dash. Already had the wiring harness totally replaced both under the hood and under the dash. Had to replace bunch of little things like washer motor, horns, cruise motor, light switch, and some other stuff. So I suspect something associated with the EATC got water in it causing it to fail. Bad blend door controller sounds right.
 
  #7  
Old 04-04-2004, 07:50 PM
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Well I hope you can find it easily. With a flood there are numerous possibilities, and yes even a broken blend door if its been hit hard enough. Hopefully you will get lucky.

Hell they may have left something disconnected when they did the wiring loom
 
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Old 04-05-2004, 09:00 PM
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Worked on it some more today. Still can't get it into test mode even using the trick with the key you mentioned. Could it be that there's no error code in the system and it won't go into test mode unless there's an error code there?

I think the blend door is working. The reason I say this is that I can turn it on max AC and wait for it to get cold, then turn the temperature up to 80 or so and the air will get warm coming out of the vents. So apparently the blend door is opening and allowing warm air into the system with the AC blowing. Does this sound right?

My friend talked to the local Ford service dept and they say that '03s are having some problems with the temperature probe sending info to the control unit. He thinks that's whats going on. It still won't do anything but blow max fan and max temp on automatic. Even when I put it on 65 degrees and let it heat up for awhile, it won't cause the fan to cycle down or the air to cool when the cab temp gets warmer than the temperature I set.

Any suggestions on how to get it into test mode or what the overall problem sounds like would be appreciated. Also does anyone know whether it will go into test mode if there aren't any error codes in the unit?

Thanks for the help so far. Nothing more entertaining than piddling with a vehicle.
 
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Old 04-05-2004, 09:11 PM
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I would have to have a VIN to check for service messages. I can only obtain TSB otherwise and there are no TSB for 2003 regarding EATC
 
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Old 04-06-2004, 05:31 PM
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I stopped at the local Ford dealer today and inquired about having them read the EATC error codes for me. I was informed that I'd have to get an appointment and that would take about a week, I would have to leave the vehicle for at least 1/2 day and that it takes over an hour and cost $65.00.

That don't seem like a good deal to me but I may be wrong.

Would it be safe to post the VIN number here? Although I've been around here for a long time, I have mostly lurked and haven't posted enough to have email privileges.

By the way I needed a EVR control module while I was at dealer. I asked them to look it up for my 2003. The parts guy says there's no listing for the part on a 2003 but there is on a 2002. He got out the part and it was the one I needed. I checked and my truck was built 10-02 and the title says 2003. Is that unusual? Does that indicate my truck has a 2002 motor even though it's a 2003 truck? I asked the parts guy and he sort of brushed it off.
 
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Old 04-06-2004, 06:20 PM
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You can have a production date any time of the year and be considered the next year production. 1997 F150 began production in Jan 1996 :O

VIN is the only way to know for sure. If the vehicle has a builder titile I dont know the harm in posting the VIN. There should be no personal data linked to it.

I did notice there were some changes in the 2003 control head compared to the 2002 from the factory service manuals. If you got a control head from anything but a 2003 that may be a problem. You could call your dealer to verify if they have different part numbers from the one you picked up.
 
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:54 PM
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VIN 1FTRW07673KA95911

Yes, I could have gotten a 2002 control head. I'll check that out. I wonder what parts would say about the interchangeability?

I've sort of decided I need to get the trouble codes off of the unit even if I have to take it to the dealer to do so. I'll have to tell them about this too in case they can't get it to go into test mode.
 
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:05 PM
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VEHICLE DESCRIPTION
2003 F-SERIES LD BODY STYLE
F-150 CREW FLARE SIDE 4X2 ENGINE
4.6L SOHC (WINDSOR) ENGINE CALIBRATION
3F516M0A
TRANSMISSION
4R70W 4 SPD AUTO AXLE CODE
H9
GENERAL WARRANTY INFORMATION
WARRANTY START DATE
10/25/2002 BUILD DATE
10/08/2002 SALE MILEAGE

WARNING MESSAGES
------------------------------------------------------------------

ALL WARRANTY CANCELLED; TITLE BRANDED(CODE T1)


Its definitely a 2003 and there are no service messages concerning problems with the EATC. I would install the original control head if you still have it and get a proper diagnostic.
When they replaced the dash wiring was it a new 2003 wiring loom with a new Fuse box and Gem module? How about the powertrain control module PCM
 
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Old 04-06-2004, 09:24 PM
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As far as interchangability what they can do is cross refernce the part number on your current control head. It wont have the Ford catalog number on it. So they will have to firt see what the service part number to a Ford catalog number and see if it is a match to what you are supposed to have installed. Even if its an older part number it could update to the newer number. But if both are still good numbers there is a difference in the electronic structures that make them incompatible.

What I noticed from reading the schematics of both the 2002 and the 2003 is that the 2003 utilized well identified VREF circuits where the 2002 appeared to use hard wired to sensor circuits. It could however be just the difference in the company that creates and prints the EVTMS from year to year.
 
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Old 04-08-2004, 08:20 PM
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Homer, I'm pretty sure I can get the original control module. I gave it to the guy who sold me the replacement and he said he'd hold it for me to see if the new one fixed my problem. I'll keep you posted.

A soapbox statement:

While personally I have no complaint, since I bought the truck rebuilt and received a substantial discount which presumably took into account lack of warranty, it seems unfair to me that Ford (and the other mfgrs I assume) summarily cancels the warranty when a vehicle is totalled.

If I were an owner who bought the truck new, then somebody hit me and totalled my truck and if I then decided to have it fixed and to my surprise discovered the warranty was void, I would be ****ed. I can see the warranty not applying to problems associated with the wreck but what if it's a chronic Ford trouble area, why shouldn't Ford have the burden of showing that the problem an original owner has was caused by the wreck rather than simply voiding the warranty completely?

It seems to me this is simply wrong if the vehicle is still in the hands of the original owner. Lots of vehicles that are "totalled" can be repaired with a reasonable amount of money and are very roadworthy. It seems to me that Ford is simply pushing new vehicles at the expense of fixed vehicles and by doing so is cheating the original owner of something he bought and paid for.
 

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