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Lovin the AC

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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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Lovin the AC

Finally got my AC up and running in my '88 E250 ClubWagon. New compressor, dryer, orifice and charges with 134a. Front AC blows extremely cold, rear AC isn't quite as cold, but still pretty good.

It cools it down well, but takes a little bit. Lots of windows and alot of space to cool. Been thinking about adding some insulation for sound deadening reasons.....might help with keeping it cool too.

Just thought I would share.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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Out of curiosity how much $$$ did you spend doing this my 86 f250 is missing almost all of the ac components
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:16 PM
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Congrats on the install. I did the exact same thing for my 88 Club Wagon a few months ago.

I think my new compressor was $210, my dryer was $20 and orifice tube was $5. the vacuum and recharge was done by a friend and his shop for $90. My AC hose connector kit was a cheapo plastic kit from Harbor Freight.

For the OP's rear unit, does your valve controlling the rear heater core function properly? Mine doesn't, and because the heater core and evaporator are in series, the air is heated just to be cooled, thus the warmer air in the back. I'm going to make a manual valve to shut down the flow thru the heater core and hopefully my rear AC is cooler.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by genscripter
For the OP's rear unit, does your valve controlling the rear heater core function properly? Mine doesn't, and because the heater core and evaporator are in series, the air is heated just to be cooled, thus the warmer air in the back. I'm going to make a manual valve to shut down the flow thru the heater core and hopefully my rear AC is cooler.
I'm not sure about the heater core valve, I will have to check it out. The back blows decently cold, but you can definitely tell the difference front to back.

Originally Posted by 86f250XLT-4x4
Out of curiosity how much $$$ did you spend doing this my 86 f250 is missing almost all of the ac components
My new compressor and dryer were part of the purchase deal with my van. I installed those, but had a shop do the flush/vac/charge. I got the variable orifice tube for it, so it was about $20. The previous owner had pulled the old compressor, but didn't seal the lines....so they were full of junk and the old orifice tube was stuck. They had to flush then 3-4 times to get it clean. Ended up costing me about $200 at the shop.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by genscripter
For the OP's rear unit, does your valve controlling the rear heater core function properly? Mine doesn't, and because the heater core and evaporator are in series, the air is heated just to be cooled, thus the warmer air in the back. I'm going to make a manual valve to shut down the flow thru the heater core and hopefully my rear AC is cooler.
Checked today and my rear heater core is getting hot as well. SO I am basically using the rear a/c air to cool the heater core. I think I am going to do exactly what you were proposing. Now my question is this "Did you already figure out how you wanted to do this?". I examined the lines both in the van wall and under the van. Could it be as simple as putting a shut off valve in the supply line to turn it off in the summer? I would want to see a diagram of the rear heater core circuit before doing this though to see where the coolant goes after it passes through the rear heater core.....I don't want to stop the flow and starve anything important. I guess it would be possible to make an "H" with the lines under the van. Then add some valve so you could just loop it prior to the heater core in the summer and then let it flow through the core in the winter.

Anyone else have some input......gonna check over in the E series forum as well.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 07:03 PM
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Fixed!!!! Pulled the doghouse, tracked the lines and found the valve that diverted the hot coolant during the AC operation. It was rusty and wasn't moving. Called round and found that the local AZ had one in stock. Got the new one installed and it appeared to be opening and closing correctly. Re installed the doghouse, cranked up the A/C and started testing temps. At idle I had been getting about 68* out of the rear unit and 58* out of the front. Now I was at 58* from the rear and 56* from the front at idle. Went for a drive around town. About 35mpg stop and go.....54* out of the rear unit and 52* from the front. Jumped on the highway for a cruise at 65mph. 48* from the rear unit and 45* from the front. Then just to make sure the valve was working I switched it to heat. Within a minute I had 130* air blowing out the front and rear vents. Switched it back to AC and got the same cold temperature results within minutes.

I was also having an issue with the rear blower. It only worked on high speed. Any other setting and fan didn't even move. AZ had 2 blower resistors in stock, but they both were listed for only the front blower. The one they had listed for the rear was discontinued and could not be ordered. From the pictures it looked like one of the ones they had listed for the front was identical to the back unit. Examined it further when I reached the store and decided for $25 I would give it a shot. Installed perfectly and works like a charm....I now have low, medium and high fan speeds.

Overall a successful afternoon wrenching on the van.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 01:23 AM
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congrats on the fixes. I've heard of guys installing manual valves on both front and back heater cores to shut off any heat whatsoever in their climate control system, and it's reportedly supposed to give you a few more degrees cool while running the AC or vent.
 
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