Rear door latch/cable ?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
Yea, I have power locks also. I have already taken out the License plate assembly several times to fix the lower cable latch. My issue are the torx bolts that hold on the latch assembly on the right rear door are frozen on. I wont be able to give it another try until the weekend. I am going to flood the bolts with PB blaster and buy one of those stripped screw chimichangas and see if that helps.
Thanks.
Thanks.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 660
Likes: 7
From: Central NJ
Those latch screws are pretty tight, so it's best to use a high quality torx bit. Once it strips you're pretty much done, get out the drill or grinder. I prefer to just grind off the heads. Of course once you've got the latch out you have to deal with what's left screwed into the latch.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Yea, those pesky solenoids ! 
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
I now have back doors that open, from the outside only though 
. With all the stuff in the way and not being able to remove the torx bolts I cut out part of the door so I can access the top of the latch where the cable connects to, of course I left enough metal as to not disrupt the structual integrity of the door.
I purchased those metal end connectors, big mistake. Those things made it twice as difficult, The cable does not fit in the slot, needs prying open and you have to drill out the center hole to get the cable to slide back and forth, Then you have to adjust the sleeve exactly where it needs to be and crimp down down the metal onto it, If I had it to do over again I would purchase the whole cable assembly.
I also had to drill a hole through the small part that the cable end sits in on the handle assembly and put a small bolt through it to keep it secure.
I am happy Ive got doors that open now.
. With all the stuff in the way and not being able to remove the torx bolts I cut out part of the door so I can access the top of the latch where the cable connects to, of course I left enough metal as to not disrupt the structual integrity of the door.I purchased those metal end connectors, big mistake. Those things made it twice as difficult, The cable does not fit in the slot, needs prying open and you have to drill out the center hole to get the cable to slide back and forth, Then you have to adjust the sleeve exactly where it needs to be and crimp down down the metal onto it, If I had it to do over again I would purchase the whole cable assembly.
I also had to drill a hole through the small part that the cable end sits in on the handle assembly and put a small bolt through it to keep it secure.
I am happy Ive got doors that open now.
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mkmchu
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Feb 23, 2014 01:29 PM
