1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Rear door latch/cable ?

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Old 06-24-2018, 06:00 PM
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Rear door latch/cable ?

94, Club Wagon
Has anyone replaced the right, rear door cable (outside handle) for the latch without removing the latch? Or does anyone know if its possible?

Thanks.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 06:44 PM
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Almost.
I bought the new cable but haven’t gotten around to it yet
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
Almost.
I bought the new cable but haven’t gotten around to it yet
I had A heck of a time trying to remove the torx bolts that hold the latch on. I let PB blaster soak for about an hour then tried to remove them, (yes with the correct size) and it kept slipping. I tried a small screwdriver and allens and nothing. I cut a groove into the top of one of them and tried with a large screwdriver and it would not budge. even though I had a firm grip and I clamped on large vice grips to the screwdriver still nothing.
I filed down the top and bottom of the head on one and tried to get a grip with large channel locks and still it would not budge.

I guess after 23 years of marriage the metals dont want to part, LOL.

I did not try heat because I dont have any mapp gas around and theres plastic pieces I dont want melting.
At this point I might try heating them, but they are pretty mangled now, or cut them off and drill a small hole and try a small easy out.
Or I was thinking of cutting a window into the top of the door above the latch so I can see and maybe fish the cable in the latch without removing the bolts.
Trying again tommorrow

I hope your install goes easier im50fast.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:18 PM
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I replaced all of the cables in my '96. Dorman makes replacement cables now, available on Rockauto.com.

Not sure about replacement handles. I didn't break mine.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Clubwagon
I replaced all of the cables in my '96. Dorman makes replacement cables now, available on Rockauto.com.

Not sure about replacement handles. I didn't break mine.
Did you replace them without removing the latch on the rear right door?
Ive got repair ends for my existing cables.
I did not break any handles.

Thanks.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:04 PM
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I don't see how it is possible without removing the latch. I tried to do it that way, I even drilled a 2-1/8" hole in the inside of the door(short temper), but it didn't help. Had to remove the latch.
 
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Old 06-24-2018, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by NICKSAN
94, Club Wagon
Has anyone replaced the right, rear door cable (outside handle) for the latch without removing the latch? Or does anyone know if its possible?

Thanks.
You're in for a ride here. Helps to remove the license plate holder to access the inside of the door. Not an easy job. Something you gotta learn on your own. Helps to have several different pairs of needle nose pliers. Pull the door panels then the license plate holder to get into the door. And how the latch comes out. I couldn't remove mine but could get them loose from the door frame due to the electric locks to work on the cables. Then you'll figure out how the cables come off/on
 
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Old 06-25-2018, 07:56 AM
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I just went through this:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...wont-open.html

Its not too difficult, I removed the latch assembly and used the replacement ends, they work great.

 
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Old 06-25-2018, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NICKSAN
I had A heck of a time trying to remove the torx bolts that hold the latch on. I let PB blaster soak for about an hour then tried to remove them, (yes with the correct size) and it kept slipping. I tried a small screwdriver and allens and nothing. I cut a groove into the top of one of them and tried with a large screwdriver and it would not budge. even though I had a firm grip and I clamped on large vice grips to the screwdriver still nothing.
I filed down the top and bottom of the head on one and tried to get a grip with large channel locks and still it would not budge.

I guess after 23 years of marriage the metals dont want to part, LOL.

I did not try heat because I dont have any mapp gas around and theres plastic pieces I dont want melting.
At this point I might try heating them, but they are pretty mangled now, or cut them off and drill a small hole and try a small easy out.
Or I was thinking of cutting a window into the top of the door above the latch so I can see and maybe fish the cable in the latch without removing the bolts.
Trying again tommorrow

I hope your install goes easier im50fast.
When I encounter stiff fasteners I use a hand held impact driver and that usually does the job. If the heads are too mangled just grind them off, once the latch assembly is out the threaded parts should come out easily.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 07:50 AM
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Scratching my head here. Just did this on my 96, no problems. Yes, you must remove the latch. And yes, I'm pretty sure pulling the license plate holder is also mandatory.

Speaking of which, anybody know where I can get a new license plate light holder? Mine disintegrated.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:37 AM
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Yes, the plate housing needs to come off, but be careful because the screw bosses break off easy (I broke two of them and JB Weld doesn't fix them).

I see those housings on eBay, there's aftermarket available too.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wirelessengineer
Scratching my head here. Just did this on my 96, no problems. Yes, you must remove the latch. And yes, I'm pretty sure pulling the license plate holder is also mandatory.

Speaking of which, anybody know where I can get a new license plate light holder? Mine disintegrated.
Maybe you don't have electric door locks ? Mine does and the lock solenoid is riveted into the door and thus can't be removed to simplify the operation. Mine's got a big rivet that's not something commonly available to replace if you drill it out.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:11 PM
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If you have power locks the solenoid has to come out with the latch assembly, there's no way to unhook it. On some years the bracket that holds the solenoid has slots so it can be pried off, leaving the bracket on the door. If not then you have to remove the rivet. Instead of replacing with the rivet I just used a 1/4-20 bolt/nut. But the bolt will have to be glued onto the bracket before installation because there's no access. I just used some Liquid Nails because I had an open tube.
 
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbomitch
If you have power locks the solenoid has to come out with the latch assembly, there's no way to unhook it. On some years the bracket that holds the solenoid has slots so it can be pried off, leaving the bracket on the door. If not then you have to remove the rivet. Instead of replacing with the rivet I just used a 1/4-20 bolt/nut. But the bolt will have to be glued onto the bracket before installation because there's no access. I just used some Liquid Nails because I had an open tube.
It can be done without removing the door lock solenoid. It ain't easy, but it CAN be done.
 
  #15  
Old 06-27-2018, 07:37 PM
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I removed the license plate assembly, loosened the door latch. I have electric door locks, but did not remove the solenoid.

i needed a very long needle nose pliers for one step. Luckily my neighbor had one.

my license plate light disintegrated too. I found a used one at an auto parts yard.
 


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