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A compression test revealed a mix of mostly 60-80psi with two 0's. One of those 0's was resolved with carb cleaner and pb blaster, the other one persisted. So, I took the head off the side with the persistent 0 psi cylinder (driver side rear, I think cyl 8).
What's the best way to clean 'er up and proceed?
Best way? Depends on how badly you want to get it running. Really bad: Wire wheel attached to a drill/grinder. Mint Restoration: Find a machine shop to tank the engine and heads.
Hey Steve,
(7) out of (8) with compression isn't bad after sitting for a long time. I'd keep soaking it lubing it. Can you tell
if your valves are moving on that cylinder?
I took the head off and sure enough the intake valve is stuck open. I'm soaking and cleaning that head. I'll likely remove the pistons to replace rings but I figured I'd replace the valves while I'm at it. I've put together some parts, does this look like it'll cover this partial rebuild?
That’s a cool looking truck. If it were me, and I had water in the oil, a nest in the engine, and stuck valve parts I would break it down and have a shop at least clean it and mag it. These trucks tend to be money pits and if I was going to sink money into it, I would want to know I had a good block to throw money at. And would only want to rebuild it once. Probably the next thing you find once you start it is your water pump seals leak and it just keeps going......
van pelt sales sales is a good place to get engine components. That way if you have any trouble with any of it or have questions Mac can help you over the phone.
And just to be clear, Mac's Auto Parts, (that you're looking at) is not the same as Mac Van Pelt at Van Pelt Sales. VANPELT SALES LLC - your ford flathead source since 2006
Your level of service will be drastically different. It's always good to deal with people who know these trucks and parts, rather than a wage order taker.
So I decided to clean it and if everything looks ok, put valves and rings on it. Just as an fyi for anyone else coming across this, after trying solvents and dips, the best thing to clean out carbon seems to be heavy duty oven cleaner...works far and away better than anything else I used (including berryman).
Is there any significant value in polishing out the combustion chamber while I have it out?
carbon won't build up on a polished surface as much as a non polished one. I used to polished the heads on my 2 stroke motorcycle heads, made a big difference.
Looks good on the outside, but they may still be gunked up on the inside. I think if I were going to this much trouble, I'd drop the heads off at a good, local machine shop, have them hot tanked and surfaced so I know they're clean and the surface is true. My 2c.
Looks good on the outside, but they may still be gunked up on the inside. I think if I were going to this much trouble, I'd drop the heads off at a good, local machine shop, have them hot tanked and surfaced so I know they're clean and the surface is true. My 2c.
I do plan on filling a container with a CLR dilute and putting these in there for rust removal in the coolant path. I'm hoping that this will be sufficient for my driver-type restore.
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