I like to be hopeful and all but if that were my engine, I'd be planning to pull it for a through cleaning. Water in the oil 'taint good and nests are worse. Especially since no one can guess at all the previous occupants, or their addresses. The crank isn't lubed meaning the bearing condition can't be happy. Your call, of course.
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We got the engine turning today, and its turning really well. I think the water level was low enough in the oil pan that even the oil pump was still above it. I think the oil kept everything protected...and besides some carbon, the valves look like they're moving right when we turn it over with the starter.

BTW, the way we got it broke loose was to push it and drop the clutch without any plugs...it rolls well like that now (except for a bad tire). I think the starter solenoid is bad though because we have to bypass it to get the starter to turn it over.

My plan is to get a new solenoid, give it some oil and gas, and see if she starts up next weekend. I'll post a video of the first start (hopefully).

Then, if that goes well, I'll re-do the brakes and after that work on the transmission (not looking forward to that). I have to say, I really appreciate all the input. I've used a ton of it so far and I've only just begun. Most importantly, I really appreciate the enthusiasm. That with the little victories like turning over the engine today are invaluable to keeping up motivation.

Any suggestions on a good source for a starter solenoid and original drum brake parts? I've debated putting disks on but that may be more than I want to do quite yet...plus i think I'll stay as stock as possible (at least in the engine) so drums should be fine.

I'm also curious on thoughts about transmission. I'm afraid the three on the tree may not be geared well for a driver...what are thoughts on a 5 or even 6 speed in there?

 

There you go... good job getting it to turn over!! We found quite a few parts at Napa... they seem to be the most knowledgeable.
We put in a Mustang II front suspension with disc brakes...... that's a lot of work & money (>$2500). I'd get your drum brakes working
perfectly then see how you like it. The steering in these old trucks can be really interesting vs a modern truck. That might be the thing
that makes you change up the front end...

Once you start on the brakes - you may want to check on upgrading your master cylinder to a dual master... so all of your brakes
don't go out at once if you get a leak. It's pretty straight forward & reasonable.

Looking good up there in Wisconsin!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Congrats on freeing the engine. Between Dennis Carpenter and Mac's, they'll have all the brake parts. Don't overlook Napa for some of those items. Be aware of shipping costs regardless of the source as they can quickly add up.

Staying stock should simplify some things.

How's the wiring?

 

Thanks.

I think the wiring will eventually need to be redone. I did replace the positive to frame and the negative to starter in order to get it to turn over. I'm hoping that, besides a tiny bit of custom made wires/crimping it's as straightforward as it appears. Any suggestions on that would be appreciated as well though.

 

The 3 on the tree would not affect your drivability unless your leg gets tired of shifting. The rear end ratio is what will decide your cruising speed. The standard rear in a 53 F100 is a 3.92. My 54 F100 can cruise comfortably at 60mph. It can go faster but I don't like to do it for a long time.

 

My first few cars were manuals so I can definitely get used to that again. What I'm wondering though is if I should have something with an overdrive so highway speeds are a bit more comfy for that old flatty.

 

Yeah, an overdrive tranny would definitely help.

 

I got a new starter solenoid and we're (btw, I'm doing this restore with my dad) getting ready to try to start that this weekend. However someone raised a concern that has given me second thoughts. Someone mentioned we should rebuild the engine before trying to start to avoid messing up the cylinder walls.

I do know that, 30+ years ago, the last time it was driven, it burned oil but it ran amazingly smooth and quiet.

Is it a bad idea to try to get it started this early in the project or should we get it going in order to better asses the condition of things (engine and other)?

 

 

First off the picture you posted is the crankshaft not the camshaft and second I say get it running. If it needs rebuilding it will let you know. I think you are going at this the right way. Keep plugging along, as you get things going the things needing work will make themselves known. It looks like you got a great canvas to work with. Enjoy your truck.

 

Hi Neighbor,
I'd get it running & see what compression I was getting. You will know if you have a good runner
or you need to do some more work. Odds are you will have some work to do..... but who knows..
you might get lucky.

What's your name? Neighbor seems impersonal...

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

A compression test revealed a mix of mostly 60-80psi with two 0's. One of those 0's was resolved with carb cleaner and pb blaster, the other one persisted. So, I took the head off the side with the persistent 0 psi cylinder (driver side rear, I think cyl 8).




What's the best way to clean 'er up and proceed?

 

BTW, My name is Steve

 

Hello Steve.. you can put that in your signature if you wish..