I'm sure you've already tried fuses and such so the next thing I would check for is weather or not you have power at the brake pedal switch with a simple test light.

If you don't have one this is a definite item for the glove box especially if you pull trailers often

Be sure to test the light on a known power point on the fuse box to make sure it has a good ground.

If no power is present search for a fusable link under the hood. It's like a bump in a wire and it's an internal wire sized to burn out if there is a short or if it just gets old. Not sure where the location would be on your bricknose but they're normally between the battery and the fire wall somewhere in the wiring. Anything that has power without the key will have a fuseable link such as headlights, horn, ect

If your getting power to the switch, there is a connector on your steering column that's u shaped, try unplugging and plugging it several times. I've had this fix all kinds of weird stop light/blinker issues. I also run a zip tie around it and tighten the **** out of it because the factory retaining clip normally breaks when you try to release it.

 

 

 

My brake lights failed long ago, I just ran a fuse to the pedal switch, then ran primary wire under the bed, disconnected the old wires and ran that primary wire directly to the bulbs .. Other side to ground on the frame..

It's the wrong way to do it, but it does the job and took fewer than 2hrs and no troubleshooting or new parts required..

 

In my case, wire under the steering wheel rubbed off insulation. pulled off steering wheel, wrapped black tape around bare exposed wire. problem solved

 

Right, the brake light circuit has to run through the T/S switch.