The engine was mated to the transmission right after I installed the rear main seal (within a month or so). I wouldn't think it'd leak, but who knows.

I am really concerned with the milky oil up front.

 

Ahh okay. Clean up the leaks and do a compression test before pulling the heads I would say. Might have a leak with the intake manifold too. There is a coolant passage up front around the distributor I believe.

 

 

 

Those look like good numbers, nice and even. They only seem low since the piston rings can't get seated till it gets on the road.

Red hot headers are most likely retarded ignition timing.

 

Second Tedster9's comments.

Wondering if you have a bad seal on the intake manifold somewhere in the front. Maybe the milky oil was residual from sitting? You could do another start up and see if the leak is really a leak. Unless you are certain then maybe pull the intake and inspect the gaskets and sealant. That is my only thought of where a leak around the distributor could be.

 

^^ what he said ^^
I would clean everything up front & back of intake and run it some more.
That rear main seal leak can also be the rear intake to block seal leaking. It then runs down the back of the block around the bell housing and look like it is the rear main seal. Use a mirror & a good light back there to check the intake seal.

On the AMC motors I have messed with we don't use the rubber end seals, we throw them in the trash can. When you install the intake that rubber seal gets pushed out and you then have an oil leak.
Had one do that on my drag motor, looked just like a rear main seal leak. I did not install the intake it was the way I got the motor.

Between that and maybe the front milk leak the intake may need to come off for fixing.
Dave ----

Oh what do we use to replace the rubber end seals? A bead of high temp sealer. Clean the block & intake with brake or carb cleaner, run a thick bead of sealer across the block let sit up about an hour then install the intake using the gaskets on the heads only. You may need sealer around water ports both head & intake.
When you bolt the intake down the bead of sealer should squish out a little.

 

 

I thought the scale is part of the timing cover?
If it did break off then it bolts on no? why not et a new one then?
Now turn the motor the other way till it hits the stop and mark the balancer at the pointer.
The distance between the 2 marks on the balancer is TDC.

Some say you can use a vacuum gauge and time for the highest number.
Dave ----

 

The Pointer is definitely not there. See Pictures below:


This is from underneath looking up


This is from the top looking down



Is this what I would need? Will it just fit over what I have pictured above? I would really like to not have to replace the timing cover altogether.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-35...0AAOSwys5WUj18

I can't really find a good picture of the positioning of the pointer (where you read the degrees on the balancer).

Also, I am confused by the part "now turn the engine the other way until it hits the stop and mark the balancer at the pointer"
What do you mean hits the stop?

 

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE:::::
Rotate engine to # 1 cylinder on compression, Drop distributor in with rotor pointing to # 1 cylinder on cap, Rotate engine to the timing mark on balancer you want the timing set at I.E. 10 degrees. Then look in distributor at reluctor wheel and line the tooth on the wheel with the tooth on the distributor pickup. Lock down distributor. Timing will be at or close to what you set it at on dampner. FYI been told one half of a tooth off on reluctor is @ 7 degrees. (never checked this fact)
If you set distributor this way it will be super close to perfect.
Other start up tips.
Always prelube. Was always told to use a straight 30 weight oil for break-in.
I always use water in radiator till after break-in, That way if you have a leak or blow a hose, doesn't loose all that expensive antifreeze.
If engine runs hot put a box fan in front of radiator.
When you get to drive it, get on highway and run up speed and let it coast down in each gear a couple of times, This will help seat the rings. Have seen some chrome rings go 5000 miles before it quit using oil.
Check oil every day you drive to keep check on oil level.
After 500 miles change oil.
After break-in, drive truck like you stole it. Or just drive it like you are going to use it.

 

 

Would be harder without a pointer for sure. You might need a vacuum gauge then to set timing, hook to manifold vacuum start engine advance distributor to get highest vacuum reading and back off 1 lb vacuum. Lock distributor down. Should be close.