I'm going to replace the cam synchronizer on my 1997 3.0 Ranger. The blade on the old synchronizer is totally smashed so that I figure no alignment tool is going to fit. If I go to top dead center on #1, is the blade on the new one supposed to align with the open gap on the side of the synchronizer housing? Or is it supposed to be a few degrees left or right when seated? Can anyone help me out here? Thanks.

 

For me, the vane was directly in the middle of the cutout or window.

Here is how it was on my 2000:

I ended up being a tooth off clockwise, so having the sensor pointed straight to the rear of the truck got it close, but not close enough to not throw a code.

Got the alignment tool as a loaner from Autozone and got it all sorted out, part number 84-8400T. Its a 4 piece assortment and my truck used the black one.

The hardest part was getting the engine at top dead center, as there are no pictures specific to a 2000 Ranger 3.0. So here is a picture of how I did it:



When I last shut the truck off, it just happened to come to a stop with the #1 cylinder being near TDC on the compression stroke with the missing tooth pointing at the crank sensor. Like this, the vane was right in the window of the synchro, but this was not TDC on the engine.

After much searching to see where the actual timing pointer is on this engine, it is just past the crank sensor hidden in the shadows on this picture.

It ended up being that if you put the "TDC" mark on the balancer directly under the crank sensor, then the "0" mark on the balancer is right under the pointer cast into the timing chain cover.

When I rolled the engine over to this, the vane was now past the window in the window of the synchro, so I had to pull it and move it one tooth counter clockwise looking down at it.

The "60 degrees for a 3.0 and 75 degrees for a 4.0" are where you have the arrow of the alignment tool pointing when you begin to stab it. As the teeth engage, it will rotate clockwise and the final position will be more like 30 degress away from the rear of the motor.

Used the alignment tool and got it to drop right in all at once. Put the sensor back on and fired up the truck. Its running much happier now and I have been to Autozone to return the tool and then to lunch and back home. No CEL thus far.

 

Thank you for the detailed reply and picture illustrating the damper markings. I've never changed one of these synchronizers but didn't plan on there being a problem. I've pulled and replaced many distributors without going to TDC by just marking the distributor housing and noting where the rotor was pointing. I figure the synchro works the same way. The problem came when I took off the cam sensor and saw that the top of the synchro had been destroyed to the point that I can't tell where it should be located. So, I asked the question, and you gave a great reply. Thank you.
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You are in luck, I am changing the heads on mine today, here is the engine at top dead center, how the synchronizer looks, and how the damper looks:

 

Thanks for some even more useful pics. Good luck with the engine work.