When I got my truck last year, it had an exhaust brake system from a company called Western Diesel, which no longer exists. It was GREAT for towing, but also got stuck once or twice on our last long trip. That was ZERO fun. Well, as of the other day, it now doesn't work at all, so I guess it's time for a pedestal and valve delete. I thought about trouble shooting this one, but I found some older threads via search that were about the thing getting stuck closed and having to be removed to get them unstuck! Anyways, just thought I would post up here. I'll probably do it next week sometime and post up some pics. I'll also go ahead and do the turbo rebuild with a 360* kit and possibly up-pipe gaskets on the top end. I don't have any leaks on the bottom end....yet.

 

But exhaust brakes are so dang handy. All of the things you need are already there and shouldn't take too much electrical troubleshooting to figure out the problem. There's a switch, two relays, and a couple wires that tie into the back pressure valve and the idle validation switch.

 

Mine got stuck a few times, and I was in the middle of replacing the turbo when I discovered the root cause of the problem. There is a burr in the exhaust housing casting that catches on the Exhaust Backpressure butterfly valve. I Filed the burr down, and the problem never reared its head again. I should point out I use the exhaust brake every time I drive (towing or not) because of the mountainous terrain where I live.

I have an oil leak that just popped up on my last drive, and I think it's the EBPV actuator in the pedestal. If this is the case, I have every intention of repairing it - because I never want to be without the engine braking again.

 

I feel that if I had a 4R100 truck that the exhaust brake option on our trucks would be very useful. Although, with the ZF6 I found no problems maintaining a descending speed going over mountains all around the country. From western Washington, to Idaho, to Colorado to Tennessee.

Although, having a properly working exhaust brake could serve as another source of maintaining speed. I don't see myself adding one, but if the truck had one I might keep it.

 

When the TC is locked during decel, there is no difference between having an auto or a manual. Most tuning does not lock the TC during decel, and I'm not sure how an unmodified 4R100 would handle it anyway. Since I have the HD 4R100, it is specifically set up for engine braking. I'm here to tell you there is a huge difference between decel only and engine braking.

 

I can only trust your guidance on the 4R100.

Although, I can tell you from experience that going down a grade with 10K lbs behind me in in tow when in 3rd gear it was a constant speed at which I had "set" when cresting the hill. If I needed to, I would set the transmission into 2nd, but normally it was 3rd.

Again, I see the usefulness of the exhaust brake (not full engine brake like big trucks have), but in my application it is not required due to how well the ZF6 handles keeping the speed of the vehicle in check.

 

You might be surprised. I've driven a 32' diesel pusher motorhome with engine braking, and it felt weaker than Stinky's engine brake when I pull the boat (about the same weight total). Scotttahoe drove Stinky (8300 pounds or so) down a very steep grade (Mt Rose, NV), and he felt the braking was on par with his semi with a jake. I can't be sure if he meant empty or loaded, I didn't ask - I only know he was impressed.

I'm not saying "Oh yes it is.", I'm just sharing what I've experienced for consideration. I have stuff around me that really puts the hurt on brakes if the engine doesn't help out, so I'm motivated to try things out - which I have.

 

There is a road here with two hills where I routinely drive for work. I drive a 2000 F550 that weighs over 17.5K lbs. and has a 6-speed. The first hill is a straight 1.25 miles long and 7% grade. The exhaust brake will maintain 58-60 MPH down the hill and I don't have to use the brakes to make the sharp corner at the bottom. Without the exhaust brake, I have to constantly correct the vehicle's speed to maintain less than 68-70 MPH and I still have to use the service brakes near the bottom to make the corner.

The other hill is much more steep and has a corner in the middle. 9% grade for 3/4 of a mile. I always start at 45-48 MPH at the top. By the bottom with the exhaust brake I have reached 60-62 MPH with no intervention but without it I have to use the service brakes for the corner and then use them once or twice again to get the speed down to 65 MPH before the next corner in the road.

The difference in average speed throughout the hills is monumental and if you've never experienced a well-functioning exhaust brake then judgment cannot be made about how well they actually work. Like Tugly, every time I go somewhere, loaded or not, I use the exhaust brake. The biggest drawback to going with the HX50 turbo on one of my 7.3L pickups was losing that backpressure valve.

 

Cody, you would be right. I guess I can try to troubleshoot it. I am electrically ruhtarded though. I also am not sure I want to be the guy on the road when it decides to stick closed. That has happened once when I was towing across country and it was a giant PITA.

I have a manual trans and it should be enough to hold me back when needed. I got stuff to think about I guess. I'd like to keep it if possible. Any guidance on troubleshooting?

 

I was thinking about am exhaust brake but I am a little concerned about the possibility of trailer sway with the truck braking downhill but not the trailer, putting the hookup into compression and the trailer trying to come around the truck.

 

I understand and again I know that an exhaust brake can be a valuable tool in maintaining speed. I have driven large diesel trucks up and down mountain passes before, trust me on that one. Gravel, paved, dirt, winding, straight, whatever...

I just know that when we travel the country the ZF6 does a great job at keeping the truck and trailer at the desired speed. Proper gearing and knowing how to utilize those gears is very important.

To each their own and if/when I ever buy a truck with an exhaust brake, I will use it, but you will not see me installing one on this truck.

We all have stories about our experiences on grades.

 

That hasn't been an issue with my trailer with the electric brakes - the "braking" is applied to the truck's rear axle, not the front wheels. Without braking in the front, you don't feel any pull one way or the other. Another thing... engine braking isn't so aggressive that it tries to let the trailer slide one way or the other. If this were the case, semis would have a real issue with Jake brakes.

Saying that, I don't use the engine braking on slick roads.

 

That feeling you get when your tach takes a dive when you hit the jake is indescribable.

 

You know... the permagrin is expected with a lot more horsepower, but I totally get what you say about engine braking. I'll be in TCLU while coasting downhill, then the braking kicks in with the big hiss out the tailpipe - and I swear you can feel your wallet fatten because of brake hardware not being consumed.

 

Semis and 5th wheel trailers have the pivot point over or in front of the rear axles, they are not subject to the same forces/leverage that a bumper pull is subjected to which makes them more susceptible to sway. There is some discussion on this over at the Airstream forums, some like engine braking and some say it's downright dangerous with a heavy bumper pull. Many use a Hensley design hitch which projects a "virtual" pivot point closer to the rear axle of the tow vehicle preventing the trailer from pushing sideways on the back end of the tow vehicle. I am on the fence. Doing research I also saw mention of torque converter lock up kits required with the kits like BD and Banks. Not sure if this puts extra strain on the tranny or not.