Temporary fuel pump power wire
#32
#33
Not sure what you did, hard to tell from the photo angles.
if you jump the Inirtia Brown wire with the Pinkwire at the HP pump connector, and you have a proven ground,then your HP pump motor is bad.
if you jump the Inertia Brown with the Pink wire at the HP pump connector, one of the tank pumps will come on depending on switch selection. This is a good sign that the Pink wire is ok.
nice jumper on the test connector by the way...
if you jump the Inirtia Brown wire with the Pinkwire at the HP pump connector, and you have a proven ground,then your HP pump motor is bad.
if you jump the Inertia Brown with the Pink wire at the HP pump connector, one of the tank pumps will come on depending on switch selection. This is a good sign that the Pink wire is ok.
nice jumper on the test connector by the way...
#34
[QUOTE=krooser;17997873]Well I can see I hooked the splice up to the wrong wire on the HP pump... oops! That's likely why I have power to the in tank pump coming thru the tank selector switch
looks like I jumped the brown wire at the inertia switch to the brown wire at the pump. Should have jumped to the pink at the pump to power up the pump.
That first fuzzy photo is the HP pump and connector.
BTW.... never waste your money on Chinese knock off Scotch Locks at O'Reillys.... junk.
looks like I jumped the brown wire at the inertia switch to the brown wire at the pump. Should have jumped to the pink at the pump to power up the pump.
That first fuzzy photo is the HP pump and connector.
BTW.... never waste your money on Chinese knock off Scotch Locks at O'Reillys.... junk.
#35
#36
The pk/bk wire is hot at the inertia switch but not at the pump.
The yellow jumper was supposed to power up the HP pump but did not... I do have noise at the in tank pumps....at least one of them (the rear I believe). I put three gallons of gas in the rear tank and five in the front.
#37
Upon further review I did have my jumper wire hooked to the pink/black wire that powers up the HP pump. I have power in and out of the inertia switch but nothing to the pump... I would think I'd still have power at the pump while checking with a test light but I do not.
The pk/bk wire is hot at the inertia switch but not at the pump.
The yellow jumper was supposed to power up the HP pump but did not... I do have noise at the in tank pumps....at least one of them (the rear I believe). I put three gallons of gas in the rear tank and five in the front.
The pk/bk wire is hot at the inertia switch but not at the pump.
The yellow jumper was supposed to power up the HP pump but did not... I do have noise at the in tank pumps....at least one of them (the rear I believe). I put three gallons of gas in the rear tank and five in the front.
If you jumped from the inertia to the pump, you should have power to the connector at the pump.... if the pump is grounded properly it should run, if not the pump motor may be shot...
Does the in-tank pump run without the yellow jumper connected?
Have you proven a ground connection?
#38
" power at the pump" what do you mean by this, at the connector to the pump? the wire to the pump?
If you jumped from the inertia to the pump, you should have power to the connector at the pump.... if the pump is grounded properly it should run, if not the pump motor may be shot...
Does the in-tank pump run without the yellow jumper connected?
Have you proven a ground connection?
If you jumped from the inertia to the pump, you should have power to the connector at the pump.... if the pump is grounded properly it should run, if not the pump motor may be shot...
Does the in-tank pump run without the yellow jumper connected?
Have you proven a ground connection?
I checked the yellow wire that runs from the solenoid to the FP relay... hot on both ends. Power in and out of the FP relay to the inertia switch...
When the wrong pump comes from Rock Auto (again) I can then order the correct one and start over with a new HP pump.
One a brighter note I got my shop air compressor repaired by replacing the start and run capacitor's on the motor.... a good $25.00 repair!!! Not having air for two weeks is pretty challenging...
#39
#41
#44
disconnect that connector;
measure the resistance on the black wire to the frame. (red lead to the black wire, black lead on the frame somewhere)
(the black wire leading back to harness side of the connector, not the black wire to the pump)
note the reading.
Measure the pink wire inside the connector that leads to connector side that the yellow wire is tapped into, (not the pump side)
note the reading.
measure the resistance on the black wire to the frame. (red lead to the black wire, black lead on the frame somewhere)
(the black wire leading back to harness side of the connector, not the black wire to the pump)
note the reading.
Measure the pink wire inside the connector that leads to connector side that the yellow wire is tapped into, (not the pump side)
note the reading.
Last edited by vjsimone; 05-25-2018 at 08:44 PM. Reason: modify text
#45