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So after much cussing and a sawzall, I got the front shocks changed. I figured the rear would be easier, however that doesn't seem to be the case. The driver's side top nut seems to be somewhat accessable, but the passenger side is buried. It appears that I'll have to remove my muffler and the heat shield. Is there something I'm missing? WTF is up with these engineers? I want to kick them in the nads.
I've just finished the rears on my '07.
There's just enough room between the frame and the floor, to get a box wrench on the nut.
I used a second combo wrench to put on the end of the 1st one, to get leverage.
The nut came about half way off before it just tristed the stud in half.
The second one (D-side) I did the same, but got it just hi enough that I could get a long reciprocating saw blade in ther and cut it off! I picked up the blade at HF.
To hold the lower stud, I used an opened end. It stayed in place.
I had tried to just turn the bottom section with a pipe wrench, but the dust shield was to rusted and just fell apart.
If I had to do this much, I'd make up some wrenches just for this.
Do you guys have a big heat shield on your passenger side? I can barely even see the nut let alone get a wrench on it. My van was a wheel chair shuttle, I wonder if they added some shielding. It's at the alignment shop, I'll get a pic later.
On my AMC Eagles I used to own, the rear shocks were mounted similar, but the top mount was attached to a plate that was held on by two easily accessible bolts. Remove lower nut, remove two bolts, slide shock out, remove upper nut and plate, install plate on to new shock, reinstall shock. It literally took 5-10 minutes. This easily could have been done with the Ford vans but would have cost another $3.50.
I picked up a set of ratcheting combo wrenches intending to use them, but the saw won out. I'm not sure the ratcheting wrenches would have held up to twisting the bolt off. I may try it on the fronts tho...
I got them done. It sucked. Once I removed the rear riggt tire, I was able to get a better look at the nut. I put a wrench on the nut and turned the top part of the shock with a large pair of channel locks. Even with a generous dose of PB Blaster, it was a struggle. I pulled out the sawzall and luckily I had a long demolition blade and it cut it quick. I figured great, left side will be easier. Wrong. My van has rear ac and the lines are routed right where the sawzall needs to go. I was able to get a ratcheting wrench in there and use the channel locks again. Eventually, the top stud broke off. If I would have had a swivel 15mm combo wrench, it would have been a little bit easier, maybe. I also replaced the right rear hub seal since it leaked all over the brakes. Hopefully, it holds this time. I replaced it a few months ago.
I screwed up when I dropped my van off this morning at the alignment shop. I told them I wanted maximum positive camber. I meant caster, but my brain wasn't working. So when I picked it up, I looked at the printout and the alignment guy said I did what you said but it handles weird. That's when I realized I screwed up. I have to take it back Monday and pay to have it realigned. Derp
Mine ? The Front. Both lower studs sheared off and I had to drill the stubs out and replace them with two shock bolts I had squirreled away from another pair. I don't recall much about the rear other than the top bolts were hard to get at and loosen.
When you break the front one on top free, put a vice grip on the shock shaft to speed up removal, gotta be careful on the bottom nut, I snapped one off, stupid welded on crap, I miss when they were bolts.
Future reference --- we always cut the top mount of rear shocks off using a Sawzall and 10" or longer metal cutting blade. Procedure:
(1) Elevate vehicle on lift
(2) Remove rear wheels
(3) Insert Sawzall from side of vehicle into area just above rubber bushing and just below upper metal washer (located approximately 1" from upper nut securing shock)
(4) Cut thru approx 3/8" of shock upper piston mount
It takes about 10 seconds or so (of white smoke from the burning rubber) to cut thru the upper piston mounts.....................
As for front shock mounts, Ford used cheap suppliers and the lower mounts often break off during removal (we use air tools and Milwaukee impact tools) --- repair kits (approx $10) are readily avail at most auto parts stores.................
I finished the last of my shock changes this past Memorial Day weekend.
It was the front drivers side.
This turned out to be the easiest of the bunch despite breaking off the lower stud!
Local O'Reilly's had the repair kit in stock.
Worked out well.
I used KYB Gas Adjust as there was a rebate. I will say they seemed to be stronger than the Bilstiens I installed on my Ram 3500...but that was some years back, so.....
I can actually tell the difference in the ride.
Now to re-install the adjustable camber/caster bushings as I found a shop that would align the front end with them in it. Later this summer maybe...
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