HELP! Desperate! Weird Electrical Problem 08 Escape V6
#1
HELP! Desperate! Weird Electrical Problem 08 Escape V6
OK.
The other day, the wife calls, hysterical because she couldn't get the car to shift out of park. Also, the Radio stopped working(No Sound but still displays station), the information panel on the dash has gone out, and the turn signals don't work. The engine still runs, the lights still work(Brake, headlights, interior)
Now, after the car has run for a few seconds, maybe 20 or 30 seconds after starting, pressing the brake pedal disengages the shift lock and you can take it out of park. If you turn off the car, and restart it, you go right back to waiting for awhile before you can shift out of park. I drove the car for awhile and noticed that the Radio, the Information Center, and the Turn Signals work intermittently about like there's a loose wire somewhere, like when hitting a bump or making a turn.
I replaced both, the Brake Pedal Position switch and the Cruise Control switch(because if I had to crawl my fat butt under that dash, I wasn't going back to replace another switch so did both while I was there) using Ford OEM parts from the dealership.
NO CHANGE! Vehicle still does this.
About 1 month ago, I had to replace the steering wheel lock assembly due to the whole key not working problem and having to push the key in extra hard to crank problem that these vehicles, and others are known for having. I didn't have any problem replacing this unit and again, used the Factory Ford OEM part to replace it with instead of going aftermarket.
I have no idea where to begin looking for a loose connection.
Could it be in the ignition switch? Is there a main connection point under the dash for all of these separate problems that could be "jiggling" and loose?
I'm stumped.
Please, any input is appreciated.
Thanks in Advance,
The other day, the wife calls, hysterical because she couldn't get the car to shift out of park. Also, the Radio stopped working(No Sound but still displays station), the information panel on the dash has gone out, and the turn signals don't work. The engine still runs, the lights still work(Brake, headlights, interior)
Now, after the car has run for a few seconds, maybe 20 or 30 seconds after starting, pressing the brake pedal disengages the shift lock and you can take it out of park. If you turn off the car, and restart it, you go right back to waiting for awhile before you can shift out of park. I drove the car for awhile and noticed that the Radio, the Information Center, and the Turn Signals work intermittently about like there's a loose wire somewhere, like when hitting a bump or making a turn.
I replaced both, the Brake Pedal Position switch and the Cruise Control switch(because if I had to crawl my fat butt under that dash, I wasn't going back to replace another switch so did both while I was there) using Ford OEM parts from the dealership.
NO CHANGE! Vehicle still does this.
About 1 month ago, I had to replace the steering wheel lock assembly due to the whole key not working problem and having to push the key in extra hard to crank problem that these vehicles, and others are known for having. I didn't have any problem replacing this unit and again, used the Factory Ford OEM part to replace it with instead of going aftermarket.
I have no idea where to begin looking for a loose connection.
Could it be in the ignition switch? Is there a main connection point under the dash for all of these separate problems that could be "jiggling" and loose?
I'm stumped.
Please, any input is appreciated.
Thanks in Advance,
#2
I'd inspect the connections onto the ignition switch, as that wiring has been disturbed and the items are all switched ignition feed-related.
If that looks good then check to see if there is a common fuse, after that you'll need wiring diagrams and start following individual circuits unless there is a common point, such as a common ground wire connection.
If that looks good then check to see if there is a common fuse, after that you'll need wiring diagrams and start following individual circuits unless there is a common point, such as a common ground wire connection.
#3
Thanks.
I was wondering if it could possibly be the new ignition switch also, but wasn't able to get to it today because it started storming hard right after I installed the new pedal switches. I'll take a look at the switch and also check to make sure that the key does fall back far enough to maintain connection. That's one of the other things I've read about online was possibly being an issue. Even though everything in the column is brand new, it still doesn't rule out the possibility that I got a bad switch as a new replacement. When I ordered the pedal switches from the dealership, I asked about the ignition switch also but, it was nearly $100 just for the switch and I think I paid about $160 for the whole ignition lock assembly.
I was wondering if it could possibly be the new ignition switch also, but wasn't able to get to it today because it started storming hard right after I installed the new pedal switches. I'll take a look at the switch and also check to make sure that the key does fall back far enough to maintain connection. That's one of the other things I've read about online was possibly being an issue. Even though everything in the column is brand new, it still doesn't rule out the possibility that I got a bad switch as a new replacement. When I ordered the pedal switches from the dealership, I asked about the ignition switch also but, it was nearly $100 just for the switch and I think I paid about $160 for the whole ignition lock assembly.
#4
Welp, I don't have any answers right now. I finally had the time and decided to work in the rain to test out the connections at the column.
Alas, everything is working fine right now. I almost felt like a real mechanic when I went in to tell the wife there was nothing wrong with it, even though she says there is( I know it was, I experienced it personally_)
So, for now,I'm leaving the cover off the column so that when it does do it again, I can get into it immediately, if possible, and back probe and check the connections. I pressed in and jiggled all of the connections and did notice there seems to be a slight bit of play in the actual ignition switch( The plastic housing of the switch to the assembly, not the electrical connections) where the other three electrical connections around the column were tight and not able to move.
Alas, everything is working fine right now. I almost felt like a real mechanic when I went in to tell the wife there was nothing wrong with it, even though she says there is( I know it was, I experienced it personally_)
So, for now,I'm leaving the cover off the column so that when it does do it again, I can get into it immediately, if possible, and back probe and check the connections. I pressed in and jiggled all of the connections and did notice there seems to be a slight bit of play in the actual ignition switch( The plastic housing of the switch to the assembly, not the electrical connections) where the other three electrical connections around the column were tight and not able to move.
#5
#6
#7
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVIZZqGMP
Updated video w/ better description/symptoms. Does this match what you were dealing with?
Updated video w/ better description/symptoms. Does this match what you were dealing with?
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