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My switch wouldn't start the truck, but ignition was on. I cranked it by jumping the solenoid. It wouldn't shut off either so I pulled the voltage off the coil and un hooked the battery. I pulled the dash cover and found that the linkage worked fine as did the switch. My key lock just turns... pulled the key and it did not go back in real smooth. What is the right name of the parts in the column? I also noticed that once I pull the linkage back, the key will push it all the way including crank the truck. Does this mean it is just un hooked? I have after market steering wheel and it will come right off so lemme know...
Thanks in advance,
Brent
It sounds to me that the ignition switch is bad and/or broke. I've had these go bad over the years on several cars and trucks. The switch should be a rectangular box with a white (beige/gray) connection. The wiring harness will plug into this. The part where the key goes in, the ignition cylinder, pushes a rod that activates the switch. over time the plastic in the switch dries up and cracks. The last one I replaced in a Mustang crumbled in my hadn when I removed it.
Sounds like you will have to pull the steering wheel and the turn signal plate. You should then be able to pull the column shroud with the key switch. You will then see the ign. switch actuator, which is most likely causing your problem. Only about $5.00 but a pain to fit. The ign. switch actuators are differerent for streight and tilt steering. The ign. switch actuator connects the key switch to a thin rod which runs down the steering column to the ign./start switch. The ign./start switch can be adjusted by sliding it up or down the column so check that out.
It does sound to be in the column... linkage actuates everything fine...
I tried to get the turn signal plate out yesterday... realized I may need to pull some wires loose to get enough slack? Also noticed one of my plastic spots where horn wire is located is broken (white plastic). I don't mind the horn not working as I never had it hooked up to the new wheel. I also DO have the tilt column.
Brent
You should be able to get just about enough slack to lift the turn signal plate off. Then remove the three screws holding the shroud on. pull shroud off while at the same time rotating the ign. key clockwise. It should then pull streight off. To fit the new actuator you are going to have to pull the two pins that the tilt steering hinges on. You will see tapped holes in the center of these pins, one of the screws you took out earlier will screw in and you can use a pair of pliers on the screw to pull the pins. Be carefull here, only pull column back just enough and try not to loose any tiny springs. It helps if there are two working on it at this point. Good luck.
Sounds like you will have to pull the steering wheel and the turn signal plate. You should then be able to pull the column shroud with the key switch. You will then see the ign. switch actuator, which is most likely causing your problem. Only about $5.00 but a pain to fit. The ign. switch actuators are differerent for streight and tilt steering. The ign. switch actuator connects the key switch to a thin rod which runs down the steering column to the ign./start switch. The ign./start switch can be adjusted by sliding it up or down the column so check that out.
An actuator for $5.00? When was the last time you bought one, 1971?
Last one I bought was, I think `05, Cost $6.00 from Direct Ford Parts. I think we are talking about two different things. The actuator with the gear teeth was about $28.00.
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