Bent pushrod??
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
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Bent pushrod??
My truck has seemed a little low on power and is bucking at high rpm's, almost like it is running out of fuel. The bucking is intermittent and only happens at WOT. I believe I am hearing a ticking sound (more than normal) coming from the motor also. Other than that, the motor runs and sounds normal.. I am leaning towards a bent push rod due to the ticking sound and bucking at WOT. I have ruled out CPS, etc.. and show no codes. My fuel pressure gauge is acting up but I don't believe I am running out of fuel.
My questions are:
Are these symptoms typical for a bent push rod?
If I was to replace the push rods, what other changes should I make since the valve covers are off?
My questions are:
Are these symptoms typical for a bent push rod?
If I was to replace the push rods, what other changes should I make since the valve covers are off?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Normally a bent push rod you would have audible intake explosions, sometimes even white raw fuel smoke and your exhaust will pulsate try putting a card board over the exhaust and if it sucks it in an out then it could be a push rod, or a broken/fallen rocker arm.
But to me it sounds as if your UVCH has come loose or a bad injector connection.
But to me it sounds as if your UVCH has come loose or a bad injector connection.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
If your fuel pressure gauge is showing problems, there ya go. Low on power at WOT and noisy injectors and no codes are common indicators with bad fuel pressure. Could be plugged up filters in the tank, so time for the Hutch and Harpoon mods, or could be a dying fuel pump. Luckily all pretty cheap to fix.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
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Thanks for the comments. I have the in tank mods already along with fuel bowl delete. It could be fuel pump, but my gauge is not working correctly so hard to tell. I will install a new pump and see if the issues go away.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
There has been some bent push rods over the years but like said above it is rare. I even remember cracked rockers at one point. I would think heavy rev's, forced down shifts that type of thing would cause this more then anything else. Reason many change springs and push rods when up dating injectors. Let us know what you find, could help someone else.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
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I have narrowed down the issue to cylinder # 1. The rotational test showed a perdel of 2.0 - 2.4. The other cylinders were either 0 or under .8. I also did a cylinder contribution test and #1 also failed. I got a code of 0263 (cylinder #1 injector circuit contribution/balance default). Any thoughts on what could be wrong?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Pull the valve cover and take a look. I see you have Swamps 250/100. If your reving it high it could be a push rod or what ever there. Stock springs aren't really good at high rpm's. Either are these push rods. If it's the injector, how long have you had the swamp injectors. They have a great warranty.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Pull the valve cover and take a look. I see you have Swamps 250/100. If your reving it high it could be a push rod or what ever there. Stock springs aren't really good at high rpm's. Either are these push rods. If it's the injector, how long have you had the swamp injectors. They have a great warranty.
I have about 20,000 miles on the Swamps injectors and 89,000 on the motor. These have 30% nozzles not 100%. Boost in my hottest program is about 38.
When I first installed them, I remember getting the same code for injector #1. I can't remember how I got the code to go away. But at that time, the truck ran great.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Then its posible that the pushrod is slightly bent, 38 psi is alot of boost, did you replace your valve springs? If not I highly recommend it doing them as well as some Smith brothers push rods thats if you aint got them yet lol...
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Your CPS will throw codes for either 1,3 or 8 pretty common. I believe swamps is 5 years on injectors if that's the problem. I just saw your 1/8 miles times and thought you might have been pushing pretty hard with stock springs and push rods. If you turn it over with the cover off, slow and look hard you might see your problem. If not bring it to top dead center, pull the rocker and lay the push rods flat and see how they row. Not that hard. You can use your hand to push on the springs and see what they fell like. But you will have to check others as well. Me, if I was to run that big of injector, springs and push rods would of been on the list. Just for safety. Really like to know what you find so please keep us posted.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
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Well regardless of what I find, I need to install beefier valves and push rods. So I will try to price it out and see if a local shop here in Orange county can do it without removing the motor. Any ideas on the brand of valves and push rods?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Check out the Riffraff Diesel site, he usually carries all that. I believe Comp springs with .030 shims and for the life of me can't remember the push rod names. Swamps also carry push rods, I believe there springs would be harder to set up. The motor doesn't need to come out. Just make sure there at top dead center before removal. You will need new seals as well. There's write ups on it. Get a helper, and you can do it in a day. Or a good performance shop can do it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Check out the Riffraff Diesel site, he usually carries all that. I believe Comp springs with .030 shims and for the life of me can't remember the push rod names. Swamps also carry push rods, I believe there springs would be harder to set up. The motor doesn't need to come out. Just make sure there at top dead center before removal. You will need new seals as well. There's write ups on it. Get a helper, and you can do it in a day. Or a good performance shop can do it.