So I picked up a parts truck that turned out to be sooooo much nicer than the truck I was going to build. Been driving it a bit to see where the bugs are in it so I know what I need to replace. Got it running fairly decent and took it out for a spin. Heard a really ugly grinding noise coming from passenger rear. I knew it wasn't the brakes. Had a bad wheel bearing. I picked up 2 new wheel bearings and a new seal along with diff oil, which is partly to blame for the failure. I'm pretty sure had I checked it before the 10 mile drive it still wouldn't have mattered a whole lot. Anywho, I got the spindle nut off, the keeper and the second spindle nut, and that's as far as I can go. That sucker won't budge. I made sure I had released the brakes, so I'm sure it's the cooked bearing thats stuck. I tried a puller, it pretty much just pops off. I tried running a couple bolts into the hub through some chain and used a 12 ton hydraulic jack, and it just broke the chain. I tried heating the bearing while under that 12 tons of pressure. Anybody got a trick to get this off so I can salvage the hub? Ruffstuff sells a Disc brake conversion kit that looks like it will cost close to the same as new drums, pads, etc with the added bonus of being disc. I'd rather not have to buy hubs Suggestions?

 

 

That puppy got welded to the race and hub...most likely.

Heat & Beat is about all I can recommend

 

Agree with Filthy. You should be able to look in the hub and see if the bearing inner race looks kind of off center. You're basically at the slash and burn stage now. A cutting torch is about the only way I have ever been able to proceed. You want to cut the outer bearing enough so that it comes apart, rollers and all, in pieces. Then hopefully you can slide the hub over and off the spindle. Be super careful to not damage the spindle surface with your torch. I've seen bigger trucks that have the same design damaged so bad that they have to have a new spindle stub shaft machined and welded on at a professional machine shop. If that's the case with your little Dana 60 it might be cheaper to look for another axle assembly. Good luck.

 

Had that happen years ago. Used a Dremel and alot of mini cut off wheels and alot of beating. Saved the spindle and hub.

 

Yeah I put some acetylene to the bearing. not all the rollers are there. I definitely want to save the hub, and spindle of course. Those things are hard to find and are pricey. I guess I'll try again. Just feels like doing surgery with a chainsaw.

 

Quick update. I got the hubs off and the bearings as well. I carefully cut a notch in the lip of the bearing and picked the rollers out with needle nose then slid the hub off. Then I used a cutting wheel to remove the bearing from the spindle. Polished the spindle up with some emery cloth, but it's not looking quite like a machined surface. back bearing came off, but was a bit snug. I'm guessing it doesnt really matter too much as long as its snug. Pulled the other wheel off and it was a disaster as well. Bearings were good but the brakes were covered with axle grease. Pulled the Diff cover and the oil looked a bit off. Now, I need to order new bearings and seals for the pinion, since I'm in there. Ive read a lot about these axles actually being Dana 61's. The data plate says it is. But the axle tag gives me a BOM that when I look it up, says it's a 1978 1/2 truck and it's a Dana 60. Counted the splines and it appears to be a 30 spline. A detroit Truetrac is a bit pricey for this unit, so I may hold off on that for now. Just need to find a decent diff install kit

 

No F100 or F150 came with a Dana 60 or 61. A Dana 61 is not a Dana 60. What is the AXLE ID tag code/BOM? What is the AXLE code stamped on the Warranty Plate?

Dana 60/61's were only installed in F250's except 1979 F350 4WD came with Dana 60's front/rear. Otherwise, all 1963/79 F350's came with Dana 70 rear axles.

 

The truck is a 1979 F250 Camper special. It has the 60 stamped in the lower right corner of the diff. The tag says 4 10 D87 A AEA 2nd line where the BOM is 603900-14. According to Spicer web site it is a 1978 and 1/2 F-250 3/4 ton HD 4x2 Pick-up full-float. Most of the 1979 camper specials were the Dana 61s from what I have read, so I think I got lucky as it seems to be the less desirable axle. It would be better if it was 35 spline. The lockers would be cheaper. I may put a taller gear in later and there is less available for the 61 as they are not supporting it anymore. I just ordered a disc brake kit for it so I guess I got lucky because I didn't really consider the possibility of it being a 61 when I placed the order. As for the warranty plate the paper sticker on the driver door post doesn't have anything in the little boxes at the bottom that identifies that. But by the metal plate on the driver door, I believe it says it's a Dana 61. I'll have to verify that, but I've read that others have said that but it ended up being a Dana 60.

 

1978/79 F250 Dana 60 rear axle / 4.10-1 / No Limited Slip / 5,300 lbs. rear axle capacity / Rear axle parts list #93.

2) D4TZ-4234-A .. 30 Spline Axle Shaft = Use with Dana 60 rear axle / Obsolete

1975 F250 from serial number W20,001; 1976/79 F250.
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The AXLE code stamped on the metal Warranty Plate, riveted to the left door face below the latch, will be composed of two or three digits.

Code does not reflect the type of axle, truck parts catalog is required to decode it. It may be 24J: 24 = Dana 60; 4-10-1; 5,300 lbs. // J = Power Steering.

Safety Standard Certification Label glued to the left B pillar (door post) does not have the AXLE code printed on it until 1980.

All this label has printed on it is the Production Date, VIN, misc GVWR's and some have the tire size...and that's it!