Mine is a 16" fan. As a caution make sure that you do not mount the fan with the plastic ties that go through the radiator as you will damage the radiator. Per my previous photos I just made a simple flat mount that also acts as a shroud that works great. Also get a puller fan that mounts behind the radiator for best results. Mine was originally mounted by a PO in front so I just reversed the polarity on the fan when I moved it to the rear.




The fan has a simple adjustable controller/relay with a thermistor probe that goes in the right upper radiator hose that turns the fan on at whatever temperature you want. This now is kind of old school technology but it works well and is reliable. Some of the guys on here who are running fuel injection have found that some FI units have an output that can go directly to the fan relay with no need for a thermistor.




I believe that you also can use the right V8 gauge sensor, which is normally closed, to control the circuit but it probably would require a diode between the relay and the sensor and would not be adjustable. I have never done this but some of the guys on here are really great with electrical design so maybe someone else knows for sure.

 

Hey Suffolk,
Now that's what victory looks like! That's worth at least (1) beer.
We just hard wired our electric fan to a manual switch... I couldn't get
the fancy 2 speed relay to work correctly. I'll circle back at some point to
get it installed right.

Looking good over there in Suffolk!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)

 

Maybe it's an optical illusion, but the stud looks visibly necked down, and was apparently not screwed all the way into the manifold. I'd say it was overtightened pretty hard.

Millions of flatheads used this setup for 70+ yrs, I wouldn't be too quick to abandon it. Even with an electric fan (which requires an alternator of at least 65 amps) you are still going to have the stud and nut.

 

Thanks to all for their advice and kind words so far.I think the stud was in all the way, it only goes in about a 1/2" on my manifold anyway. Is this about the same as other types of manifold ?. Re the electric fan idea, which I have almost made up my mind to try. I have found a 16" fan and thermo switch over here for about £120.
In the catalogue the fan is rated at 13.7 amp (max). My generator (BTW it is marked with a fomoco tag, and stamped mastervolt) is rated at 40 amp. Is this not going to be enough to run it ?. Did not really want to start changing that as well.
I just edited this post. After the inquiry earlier as to whether I actually had a generator/alternator. As stated earlier I checked and found it is a new Powermaster unit. I just realised my truck maybe 6 volt because that generator is marked 7. something volts (cannot remember the point something from memory). Early in the morning here as I write. Later I will put a volt meter across the battery. I have not really looked at the battery since all this happened. Just assumed with the new Dolphin insert in the dashboard that the truck was now 12 volt.

Update : The battery is 12volt. I have attached a photo of my generator and just emailed Mastervolt for clarification. It is marked 7.1 volt. I guess you yanks out there will know exactly what this is.

Suffolkman

 

The Powermaster units are all alternators as far as I know, see here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power...Volt,7402.html
The tag is a puzzle tho, may have been put on there to look authentic? It's a 6v generator tag. Powermaster does make a 6v alternator that looks just like that, tho. What is the Powermaster model number?

You have to be 12v to run an electric fan, same for Dolphin gauges AFAIK. A shame you can't run it to test it, but if the battery was staying up, it must be a 12v unit "in disguise".

The stud should go all the way in to the unthreaded portion of the stud.

 

Hello again, You were right all along. Powermaster have just confirmed it is a 12v alternator....what a relief !. I have never seen these alternators dressed up to look like generators before. I have been away from the classic car scene for about 20 years, so have missed these developments. And yes that Fomoco tag was obviously added by somebody for the purpose of authenticity I guess. I am still pondering the electric fan route, I am going to a big car show at the weekend (was supposed to be in the truck of course\, thought I might find something there maybe. Re the stud, I have just lightly oiled my shiny new (NOS) stud, and screwed it in to the manifold. It does go nearly all the way in.There are just a couple or three threads showing. I must say, I have gained a lot of knowledge this week.

Suffolkman

 

I hate to say it, but don't oil the stud. If it is at all easy to unscrew, when you are adjusting the belts the stud will unscrew instead of the nut unscrewing from the stud. Not "fatal" but that is not how it should work.

 

OK, no worries I can wash it off. In fact I was thinking when I insert the stud properly, would it be best to loctite it in to the manifold ?.

 

Not a bad idea, it should minimize any galvanic corrosion between the stud and manifold. But use the "Blue" loctite, not #271 "Red".

 

OK...will do. One last thing...When I reinstall the radiator what is the easiest way to do that. I found getting it out that the 2 bottoms hoses were difficult to connect.

 

I put the hoses on the radiator, with no clamps, slid on as far as I can, then kind of "fold" them to get them started on the WP inlets, then slide them off the radiator spigot. The key is having the correct length hoses. Too long and it won't happen, too short and it will be easy but not a good grip under the clamps.

 

OK thanks for that. I will be sure to put a photo on this thread when it is all complete. Have a good day now. We are off soon to our local village cider festival to sample a few local brews....cheers !.

Suffolkman

 

Thanks Ben...it did feel good when it started to turn !!

 

 

Thanks for that, I can't wait to get it all back together. But I am not going to rush it.

Suffolkman