Hi all, I've been reading threads here for a while and never needed to ask a question, but I'm not seeing anything in the related posts about this. I had to replace my unit bearing and all of the seals and o-rings on my e99 4wd. I made the home made seal driver out of 1 1/4" pipe and a flange, but this seal really does not want to go on the axle halfshaft. I did try greasing it beforehand, but it feels like metal-on-metal contact. Here are some pics of what I am talking about. I did clean up the excessive grease shown in the one with the greased axle by itself. Were there any variations between e99 and late 99 knuckle seals, or am I doing this completely wrong, or am I just not whacking the crap out of this hard enough?

 

I just had both mine out today, looks to me like you are putting it on backwards.

 

Also, yes they do go on tight. Can you flip it over and get another pic.

 

I am trying to install it in the same orientation as it's installed in at Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure - Superdutypsd.com and so I don't think that's it. I compared the outer and inner diameters and it's tight but it should at least start. This is the part I have: Spicer 50491 (Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): F81Z3254CB) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...39&jsn=6&jsn=6

I'm wondering if it's just not out of round and if a press will be my only option to avoid damaging the seal. I'm hitting it with a 4 pound hammer and it's not even starting on the shaft.

Here is another picture from the other side of the seal

 

Ah yes you are correct, I wasn't thinking about yours bwing the older seals, mines an 06. Yes you may want to use a press, the seals are expensive if you damage it. I have done it both ways though, with a little sledge and the press, the press is the better way.

 

I noticed the install tool you made is pusing on the outer metal ring, and it looks like his installer is recessed, the part you are trying to get on is the inner metal ring, that's where I do it.

 

I know a guy with a press. I need to get a press, it seems like I'm always needing one, and a lathe, and a drill press....

My tool is recessed completely, it's just a thicker flange at .265". The lip of the seal is .225" high so the top of my tool protrudes. I can use the handy "sight-glass" to see that I'm bottomed out though

 

You need a smaller flange so it pushes on the inner ring. These seals go on right especially with that blue loctite, if you push from the outside like your doing it actually bends the seal instead on pushing it on the stub shaft

 

The pictures really don't show this well, but the flange is pushing on the flat gray area of the seal. In the picture in this reply, you can see where my flange is contacting the seal by looking at the ring near the 4 holes on the bottom of the flange.

Now for some numbers:
Axle (area I'm pressing onto) OD: 2.885"
Seal ID (inside blue): 2.860"
Seal ID (inside metal): 2.945"

ID inside metal lip that my tool fits into: 3.887"
OD of my tool: 3.893"

Picture of the contact point from the underside of the flange mentioned above:

 

With the help of a friend's press, I was able to get the seal installed. There was an initial pop, but it was smooth sailing from there. I think it must have been hanging up (possibly out of round). When I put the tool on, it moved the seal a little, so I hit the edge of my tool with a benchtop disc sander to make it fit a little looser. I would say for anyone making this tool, that it's a good idea to make it about 1/8" undersized in diameter to make sure the seal can move where it needs to go in order to center on the axle properly.

Pics!



A little more clearance


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