Alternative head stud kits?
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Senior User
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
I wouldn't install that ebay crap on my worst enemies 6.0
Stick with a proven name brand, regardless if you are keeping the truck or not, save someone else the headache and $$$ of using cheap crap
Safe to say 8 or 9 out of 10 folks doing studs use ARP......they know fasteners
Stick with a proven name brand, regardless if you are keeping the truck or not, save someone else the headache and $$$ of using cheap crap
Safe to say 8 or 9 out of 10 folks doing studs use ARP......they know fasteners
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
Not really a good idea. When you unload the clamping force you can cause issues
hat may not show up until you have some miles on the truck. In my world you have
to do it right the first time or you just don't do it.
hat may not show up until you have some miles on the truck. In my world you have
to do it right the first time or you just don't do it.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
Not trying to stir the pot
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
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From: Breckenridge, TX
At this point with the trouble he's had with things like the turbo bolt.... just pull the stinking engine out. He's halfway through the cooler stack for the BPD kit and the top half of the engine is off, just land the stupid engine and get access to do all the things he wants to the right way. Why let a shade-tree stud job be what ruins what's got to be $7k+ in parts so far.
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At this point with the trouble he's had with things like the turbo bolt.... just pull the stinking engine out. He's halfway through the cooler stack for the BPD kit and the top half of the engine is off, just land the stupid engine and get access to do all the things he wants to the right way. Why let a shade-tree stud job be what ruins what's got to be $7k+ in parts so far.
I get the point. I am not going to do a half *** head stud job.
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So maybe I don't screw with anything like increasing airflow with the odawg or tuning or turbo upgrades until I actually need to do real engine work, and see how much life I can eek out of the engine with just the EGR deleted, the OEM cooler remoted, the new water pump and fan clutch, and the alternator and battery cables done.
***** END OF MISSION CREEP ****
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
Well.. I was figuring since the block only has 57K on it that I could get away with it. But I see it's just cutting corners, and from what you're all saying it could be worse than just leaving the stock TTY bolts. I just have nightmares leading back to my 74 chevy vega. Yikes.
So maybe I don't screw with anything like increasing airflow with the odawg or tuning or turbo upgrades until I actually need to do real engine work, and see how much life I can eek out of the engine with just the EGR deleted, the OEM cooler remoted, the new water pump and fan clutch, and the alternator and battery cables done.
***** END OF MISSION CREEP ****
So maybe I don't screw with anything like increasing airflow with the odawg or tuning or turbo upgrades until I actually need to do real engine work, and see how much life I can eek out of the engine with just the EGR deleted, the OEM cooler remoted, the new water pump and fan clutch, and the alternator and battery cables done.
***** END OF MISSION CREEP ****
You are not tuning the heck out of this thing. Fix what needs to be fixed and drive it like it is meant to be driven, as a workhorse.
I said it earlier in another post when you first dropped in, but I'll say it again.
There are THOUSANDS of these engines around pulling loads, dump beds....you name it.......and they ain't studded.
You are taking the EGR out of the picture, that is a benefit. That said, there are THOUSANDS of these trucks doing the aforementioned tasks with all the emissions and still running factory head bolts.
Put some money away for something else, just realize you may never need a big job like studs.
Do the regular maintenance, and enjoy it. Don't overthink things or you will drive yourself nuts.
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I think most here would tell you to take your own advice just posted.
You are not tuning the heck out of this thing. Fix what needs to be fixed and drive it like it is meant to be driven, as a workhorse.
I said it earlier in another post when you first dropped in, but I'll say it again.
There are THOUSANDS of these engines around pulling loads, dump beds....you name it.......and they ain't studded.
You are taking the EGR out of the picture, that is a benefit. That said, there are THOUSANDS of these trucks doing the aforementioned tasks with all the emissions and still running factory head bolts.
Put some money away for something else, just realize you may never need a big job like studs.
Do the regular maintenance, and enjoy it. Don't overthink things or you will drive yourself nuts.
You are not tuning the heck out of this thing. Fix what needs to be fixed and drive it like it is meant to be driven, as a workhorse.
I said it earlier in another post when you first dropped in, but I'll say it again.
There are THOUSANDS of these engines around pulling loads, dump beds....you name it.......and they ain't studded.
You are taking the EGR out of the picture, that is a benefit. That said, there are THOUSANDS of these trucks doing the aforementioned tasks with all the emissions and still running factory head bolts.
Put some money away for something else, just realize you may never need a big job like studs.
Do the regular maintenance, and enjoy it. Don't overthink things or you will drive yourself nuts.
I just figured that without the electrical fan clutch, I don't even need the EGR valve connected.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
Mech fan clutch not a bad idea, I've yet to read a post of anyone that wished they had not gone with one.
Correct in that you won't be needing an EGR valve hooked up for cooling, however I think other things come into play as well with the EGR valve in certain cases?
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, fan operation is the main reason to leave it plugged in with the OEM clutch.
Correct in that you won't be needing an EGR valve hooked up for cooling, however I think other things come into play as well with the EGR valve in certain cases?
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, fan operation is the main reason to leave it plugged in with the OEM clutch.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Norlina NC
EGR valve controls the Electric fan.. with him converting to a mechanical fan its not such a big deal... the downside to removing the EGR system without studding is the factory setup used the EGR valve as a Blow-off valve to help protect the heads from over pressure situations when the throttles let off.. this cause alot of peoples head gasket failures because that pressure had no where to go after it was "deleted".. (with some adding bigger turbos at the same time it just exacerbated the issue.).. either the gaskets just blew or they blew from the bolts being unable to hold the 2 slabs of iron together.
as far as studs go.. the only 2 companys id buy the studs from are either ARP (or a sub-vender selling ARP's studs), and A1 Technologies H-11 studs.. those tend to be the 2 best out there for the 6.0's.. but for the money ARP tends to be waaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper..
as far as studs go.. the only 2 companys id buy the studs from are either ARP (or a sub-vender selling ARP's studs), and A1 Technologies H-11 studs.. those tend to be the 2 best out there for the 6.0's.. but for the money ARP tends to be waaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper..
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.. the downside to removing the EGR system without studding is the factory setup used the EGR valve as a Blow-off valve to help protect the heads from over pressure situations when the throttles let off.. this cause alot of peoples head gasket failures because that pressure had no where to go after it was "deleted".. (with some adding bigger turbos at the same time it just exacerbated the issue.)..
So it would seem that everybody who deleted their EGR Cooler would already have this problem. What am I missing here?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
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From: NW IA
Not sure I buy into the theory that it acts as a blow off valve.
It's a variable geometry set up to begin with, and at the boost levels they run I can't see how it acts as a blow off valve.
The valve is just sitting there flapping in the wind with the cooler gone, some guys will even leave the valve lay on the top just to have something plugged in for fan ops.
The benefits of taking the cooler out with the TTY's still there far outweigh leaving it in if you don't have to.
It's a variable geometry set up to begin with, and at the boost levels they run I can't see how it acts as a blow off valve.
The valve is just sitting there flapping in the wind with the cooler gone, some guys will even leave the valve lay on the top just to have something plugged in for fan ops.
The benefits of taking the cooler out with the TTY's still there far outweigh leaving it in if you don't have to.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,823
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From: Jersey Shore
I’ve mentioned it works as a blow off as that is what I’ve read over the years, but I don’t have data or literature from Nav to prove it.
However, a diesel is a full bore air pump and I’m not sure the rpm and air pumping would drop off faster then the turbo, maybe lifting off the pedal heading uphill. Maybe if the throttle plate was ever active on initial production.
Has anyone watched the boost pressure in that situation? I’m a flat lander.
However, a diesel is a full bore air pump and I’m not sure the rpm and air pumping would drop off faster then the turbo, maybe lifting off the pedal heading uphill. Maybe if the throttle plate was ever active on initial production.
Has anyone watched the boost pressure in that situation? I’m a flat lander.