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Mech fan clutch not a bad idea, I've yet to read a post of anyone that wished they had not gone with one.
Correct in that you won't be needing an EGR valve hooked up for cooling, however I think other things come into play as well with the EGR valve in certain cases?
Someone will correct me if I am wrong, fan operation is the main reason to leave it plugged in with the OEM clutch.
I don't know if I'm the only one but I had a bad experience with the Mech fan clutch. I don't know if it was because I bought the fan clutch from Rock Auto but my temps were bad with it. I removed it and went back to the electrical fan clutch. I put the override switch to short it to ground and love it. Just my experience.
Not sure I buy into the theory that it acts as a blow off valve.
It's a variable geometry set up to begin with, and at the boost levels they run I can't see how it acts as a blow off valve.
The valve is just sitting there flapping in the wind with the cooler gone, some guys will even leave the valve lay on the top just to have something plugged in for fan ops.
The benefits of taking the cooler out with the TTY's still there far outweigh leaving it in if you don't have to.
I am one that agrees with you. A blow off valve dumps the pressure and there is no place on the CAC that can dump.
Even with the turbine slowing down the only thing that it is doing it making less boost. Also the turbo fart is not a blow off
that is called a compressor stall and it happens because the air stream stops moving and backs up and pops out the front.
And if you did get the gas to go backwards through the cooler with the valve open you still have to over come the pressure of
the exhaust system pre turbo and if it did over come that back pressure it would just add more to the turbine side of the turbo.
My self I happen to like using a BPD cooler and just electronically turning the valve off with a tune. Also if your going to Commiefornia
or selling your truck to someone there the BPD cooler is CARB approved. Just remove the tune and it all good.
Also if your going to Commiefornia
or selling your truck to someone there the BPD cooler is CARB approved. Just remove the tune and it all good.
At this point I am pretty sure I am going to have to keep this truck until I die, and then my wife is going to bury me in it. Hopefully it will be running by then, and she won't have to tow us to the graveyard.
I am one that agrees with you. A blow off valve dumps the pressure and there is no place on the CAC that can dump.
Even with the turbine slowing down the only thing that it is doing it making less boost. Also the turbo fart is not a blow off
that is called a compressor stall and it happens because the air stream stops moving and backs up and pops out the front.
And if you did get the gas to go backwards through the cooler with the valve open you still have to over come the pressure of
the exhaust system pre turbo and if it did over come that back pressure it would just add more to the turbine side of the turbo.
My self I happen to like using a BPD cooler and just electronically turning the valve off with a tune. Also if your going to Commiefornia
or selling your truck to someone there the BPD cooler is CARB approved. Just remove the tune and it all good.
So my guess is probably right - once you've deleted the EGR cooler, the valve provides nothing to the system.
Well call me stupid but I bought the ARP head stud kit and the odawg manifold too. Screw it. I am all in! California can suck on my tail pipe.
If the EGR cooler is deleted, either dead-headed or removed or whatever... and the valve is left in... where exactly would that gas be going? It could no longer be vented to the exhaust system by the EGR valve - what you are suggesting - right? That EGR valve is just adding a dead end pipe that terminated a few inches from it, where the EGR delete kit is installed.
So it would seem that everybody who deleted their EGR Cooler would already have this problem. What am I missing here?
Mike as i said this is how it worked in the stock setup... when your looking at aftermarket turbos and superchargers where theyre added to vehicles that werent equipped with them to begin with the BOV is designed to vent to atmosphere (out of the intake piping into the air)... since the intake is under positive pressure theres no worry of getting contaminates into the piping when the valve opens... once the pressure has dropped the valve shuts returning the system to a closed system..
in the early non-VGT turbo diesels BOV would pop on the compressor side of the pump and dump the excess pressure straight into the exhaust piping... for the 6.0's with the VGT the EGR valve was used as a BOV to dump the intakes boost pressure into the EGR cooler and then into the up-pipes for the exhaust... when you delete the cooler and replace it with the block off plates on the intake this makes the system unable to perform this function... whether you leave the EGR VALVE in place or not after deleting the cooler its the same.. no where for the boost pressure to go..
as far as the electric cooling fan goes... whether the cooler is there or not, with the EGR valve in place your electric cooling fan would still run as it was designed to..
Originally Posted by navistarnut
Not sure I buy into the theory that it acts as a blow off valve.
yall are far misreading what i wrote... your pressure isnt in the exhaust its in the intake...
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I’ve mentioned it works as a blow off as that is what I’ve read over the years, but I don’t have data or literature from Nav to prove it.
ive had several ford designers confirm to me on other boards thats how it was designed to work... just as they also used the VGT as an exhaust brake when tow/haul mode is engaged... this is why many recommend against installing one after the turbo...
when you delete the cooler and replace it with the block off plates on the intake this makes the system unable to perform this function... whether you leave the EGR VALVE in place or not after deleting the cooler its the same.. no where for the boost pressure to go..
as far as the electric cooling fan goes... whether the cooler is there or not, with the EGR valve in place your electric cooling fan would still run as it was designed to..
Well, that's what I thought you were saying. So again, why is nobody seeing an issue?
Or are you advocating that the people with blown head gaskets were EGR deleted?
If all of this is true I'd think Bulletproof Diesel would be screaming it from every rooftop, pushing more of their BD EGR coolers...
Well, that's what I thought you were saying. So again, why is nobody seeing an issue?
as ive said before... people dont bother to learn how their engine is designed to operate... then want to blame failures on everything else but where the blame really lies..
Originally Posted by Mike in Arizona
Or are you advocating that the people with blown head gaskets were EGR deleted?
problem there is its not the sole cause... but doesnt help the issue either... as i said before in your other threads.. International runs these engines in their own vehicles with very few of the failures that ford has.. matter fact head gasket failure is almost unheard of in their lines.. of what failures they have are due to engines over heating causing the headgaskets to fail.. which would happen in any engine.. you have to look at the whole reason as to why things work the way they do and where the differences are coming into play...
Originally Posted by Mike in Arizona
If all of this is true I'd think Bulletproof Diesel would be screaming it from every rooftop, pushing more of their BD EGR coolers...
BPD does push for people to use their upgraded version of the EGR cooler... but with the studs done it becomes less of concern.. same time if you dont offer the full delete kits people will go elsewhere... its the same reason BPD offers their version of the oil cooler and the upgraded factory cooler... you offer people what they want and they will buy it.. and with all the fear mongering that goes on around the 6.0 engines its a pretty easy sale... especially when people dont do their homework...
Best thing I ever did was yank the engine out for my job.
Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
At this point with the trouble he's had with things like the turbo bolt.... just pull the stinking engine out. He's halfway through the cooler stack for the BPD kit and the top half of the engine is off, just land the stupid engine and get access to do all the things he wants to the right way. Why let a shade-tree stud job be what ruins what's got to be $7k+ in parts so far.
Thanks for all the feedback. I am not pulling the engine. Since I've already stripped it down in there, I am just following this guy, and pulling the heads with the engine still in.