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According to Ford, you are still "normal" correct? I would get a real gauge and put it under the dash and quit guessing. All I can tell you is the trucks I have had run about 190-195 degrees at around the "O". That is the thermostat temp and in the winter you can tell what the thermostat temp is by the way the gauge acts. But I quit guessing when I have the chance and always install aftermarket gauges.
According to Ford, you are still "normal" correct? I would get a real gauge and put it under the dash and quit guessing. All I can tell you is the trucks I have had run about 190-195 degrees at around the "O". That is the thermostat temp and in the winter you can tell what the thermostat temp is by the way the gauge acts. But I quit guessing when I have the chance and always install aftermarket gauges.
Well said Dave
If you have an indirect thermometer you can get the temp up to the "A" and then see what the temp is at the stat housing to see if it is in the danger zone.
BTW I have only had my project running (in the drive) for a short time and it has a hard time getting up to the "T / E", no shroud (yet) but have not looked into if the motor has a stat and what the setting is.
Guess I should pull out my new indirect thermometer and see if it works LOL
Dave ----
My trucks temp running down the road runs on the “A” on the “NORMAL” lettering. Is this acceptable?
in addition to reading high, my temp gauge would also read higher whenever I turned on the headlights or HVAC blower motor. Turns out it was a bad ground for the instrument cluster. A jumper wire from the little screw / bolt that holds the instrument cluster voltage regulator to the back of the cluster to ground fixed it.
I did notice this morning on my way home from work that if I turned the blower on, the temp went up. If i turned it off, it came back down.
Here’s a look at the official ground “G701” for the cluster, HVAC panel illumination, and various other things. It’s behind the radio and in my case I haven’t figured out how to remove the aftermarket radio and trim pieces to get at it without breaking anything so I ran the jumper instead.
The factory gauges in these trucks are notorious for being "off". Like stated above, put an aftermarket gauge under dash somewhere, and then monitor the temperature.
Normally, my truck runs right around the "R" on the NORMAL scale. I run the stock 195 degree thermostat. At times, the needle will slowly climb to the "A". I put an infrared gun at the thermostat housing during both conditions, and the actual temperature reads the same! I am not sure why the gauge reads differently at times, (I will have to check and see if the blower is causing this s well.) but know that mine does the exact same thing and there is nothing wrong.
Normally, my truck runs right around the "R" on the NORMAL scale. I run the stock 195 degree thermostat. At times, the needle will slowly climb to the "A". I put an infrared gun at the thermostat housing during both conditions, and the actual temperature reads the same! I am not sure why the gauge reads differently at times, (I will have to check and see if the blower is causing this s well.) but know that mine does the exact same thing and there is nothing wrong.
Sounds like mine. Today I wanted to see what it would do. Left the blower on low and drove to an ATM. Wanted it by the R and it wasn't there yet. Put in in park at the ATM and when I went to drive away it was by the A, never touched the blower.
I'll have to check it with the infrared gun as well.
Interesting, my truck does this. Never caught if the blower or what not is doing it. I'll have to watch closer. Thanks.
In my case the temp, fuel and oil pressure gauges would all read higher if I turned on the blower and / or turned on the headlights. But not anymore since I added the extra ground to the cluster.
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