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I had what felt like a hydro lock recently during a restart after a stall. I also had a noisy drivers cam phaser and a 3045 code so I popped off the valve cover hoping a tweaked phaser caused the timing to be off and that caused the sudden resistance my starter felt. Phaser doesn’t look obviously tweaked. Then I checked cam journals. Popped two caps. Front was fine. Second one was scored. Ridges my fingernail could feel. I think I need a long block. Anyone run these with slight scoring?
thanks for reading.
scoring normally results from lack of oil ( oil pressure)... weak pump or leaks thru the phaser system may have caused this... If you continue to run, I think long term your looking at bigger problems. You probably don't need a long block, but you do need additional inspection / pump / timing chain / gears / phaser or delete, and additional inspection of the cam shafts.
I had the exact same issue 150 miles from home with a car trailer when the engine stalled and was locked up when trying to restart it. After it cooled, I was able to restart it. I pulled the plugs off the VVT solenoids, and was able to make it home. Within 500 miles the timing chain was slapping the timing cover. Disassembly revealed that the head's cam journals were melted on the passenger side. I wound up with a reman engine with warranty for $3200.
Need to check oil pressure while engine is hot (200 degrees cylinder head temp). Once engine is hot power brake in reverse @ 1200 RPM for 1-4 seconds and let off. Wait 10 seconds and repeat. Do this 10 times and let vehicle idle. If oil pressure ever drops below 18psi you are on borrowed time. Drive it until she blows.
Need to check oil pressure while engine is hot (200 degrees cylinder head temp). Once engine is hot power brake in reverse @ 1200 RPM for 1-4 seconds and let off. Wait 10 seconds and repeat. Do this 10 times and let vehicle idle. If oil pressure ever drops below 18psi you are on borrowed time. Drive it until she blows.
If you don't mind, what difference does it make if you power brake it in reverse, or forward ? Just curious,....
It's the best way I have found to get a faulty vct solenoid to act up. Just my experience. It may be subconscious, don't want to slip off brake pedal and drive into my toolbox.
Thanks for the input. Here’s more info. After the weird resistance I felt trying to restart (after it stalled) it started but ran like a dog. Stunk of fuel. It felt like a hydro-lock so I thought an injector stuck open and bent a rod on the restart attempt. Then I saw the cam sensor code and decided (because it was less catastrophic) the phaser had finally sheered the pin and the timing being off was the weird resistance for lack of better term. It felt really bad. Like hydro lock or spun bearing in hindsight.
So I checked phaser and cam journals as mentioned and ithere was some scoring. Enough to feel with fingernail. My next move is to check compression. If one bank is all low I’ll pull off the front cover and check the timing. If one cyl is low I’ll figure a bent rod.
As im writing I’m realizing I should’ve started with injectors. Got sidetracked. Ugh.
Also, I replaced the timing chain, guides, tensioners and one phaser couple years back. Left the drivers phaser and had cam sensor code on same side.
It wont start anymore so can’t check oil pressure.
Then... got under the beast and found rot on back of frame where shackles n bumper brackets attach. I thing big red is all done. Thanks for reading