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I was wondering if someone here could help me out with a question? I am boondocking right now and noticed my fridge is not on, no light inside and nothing on the control panel. it is a 8cf Dometic gas and electric less than a year old. Is there anything I could check out here? I looked at all the fuses in the control panel and they are all good.
Are there any fuses in the back of the unit? Or behind the control panel on the fridge?
Agree, the reason I asked about power is I just did a call like this one. It was during the day so no lights were on and they didn’t notice they had no power anywhere, not just at the appliance.
Fuses should be be checked for continuity with a meter. In the absence of a meter, I would simply replace before moving to back of refrigerator. Lots of calls happen where a bad fuse looks good.
You really need a meter.... what happens if the second fuse blows? Try a 3rd? Meters are cheap...6$ at Harbor Freight.... or free if you have a coupon....but then you gotta buy something else.
Sorry about the late reply, had to get somewhere with internet again. Thanks for the reply's. All fuses good and power AC and DC to the back of fridge. The DC input comes into the fridge and heads to the right to two thermal fuses before going to the control board.
One thermal fuse has a reset on it the other one by the bottom of the burner mounted to the side appears to be a fuse able link does not, it's the one that failed.
I think the winds we were in driving up disrupted the flame and tripped that one. Looks like you have to buy that wire to get the fuse that's in line unless there is another fix that you know of rvtech?
I checked all venting and made sure there was no obstructions and have it back up and running.
These units will not even run on AC without DC power to the control board.
Thanks again for the help..
Last edited by TheGrayRider; Apr 28, 2018 at 01:00 AM.
Reason: spelling
interesting. As you realize, what you have bypassed is a fusible link designed to open a circuit and kill power to the board. The actual fuses are under the board cover.
Since the overprotection link and resettable thermal cut-off are liability issues, you may have trouble getting a replacement without going through a dealer or service center. Historically Dometic’s position was the replacement or installation had to be completed by a “professional”.
Now here is where I have to make my old fuss budget public service announcement. Virtually every safety system in an RV is there in case something doesn’t work the way it should. When bypassed things could go wrong that may cause harm. There have been refrigerator fires which have resulted in injury, death, or the death of companion animals. Be safe!
Last post may not be clear. When Dometic redesigned their fridges to heat faster i.e. cool more quickly, the welds started breaking. That led to fires if the hydrogen in the cooling coil hit the burner. Hence to the two switches at the stack that kill power to the board if things get too hot.
Its remarkably simple to bypass them or use something else in their place, but you lose the fire protection.
Great info but nothing was bypassed here, a RV repair guy in a town 40 miles from us took the part we needed out of a unit he had there and gave it to me..
He did not want to charge me since he was not installing it, liability issue I'm sure..
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