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I think that would be the thing to do. How easy does the paper come off the lights? If it comes off fairly easy then I would for sure pull the paper off. Looking good.
It comes off extremely easy. I’m not sold on installing these ford screws with the backers. I may get some stainless self tapping screws instead
Originally Posted by xxxsherpa
I think that would be the thing to do. How easy does the paper come off the lights? If it comes off fairly easy then I would for sure pull the paper off. Looking good.
So I ran into a slight issue and now I’m at the point that I have to make a decision one way or the other and hoping for some input.
I went to install the first light and when I got it in place, the plastic wasn’t flush with my roof. My immediate thought was the gasket wasn’t going to compress enough, even with the screw in place (because it’s at the back of the light and I still would’ve had a lip at the front). Making a rushed decision, I peeled the gasket off and went to reinstall, but it still wouldn’t sit flush. My thought is now that maybe the screw would’ve pulled it down all the way. my 2 questions for the board:
-when the screw is installed, is it going to pull the light down on all sides so it sits flush and there is no lip?
-now that I have 2 lights without a gasket and the rest with them still on, do I just install like this and silicone the crap out of them or bite the bullet, order 2 new lights, and delay finishing the project?
I did have the recon lights but I assume they’re similar gasket. I did also use silicone under the gasket as well as under the roof. No leaks thus far. Been a winter.
Here is one of the lights test fitted with the back screwed down. I can’t get the front to flatten down the back is sitting flush because it’s screwed down
Just my opinion. But I think you’re going to have a little gap. Someone with stock lights may have a better answer but I know none of mine sit flush, plastic to metal.
Update: There was a square tab to the right of the plug on the light. I cut that tab off and they now sit flush. No clue why on earth that tab is there, but since I have oem lights and the factory notches out the roof on the right of the rectangle, I’m assuming the recon lights don’t include the tab which is why a square hole works for recon
So for those who have installed Recon lights or even OEM lights aftermarket, what kind of sealant are y'all using? As specific as possible. I have a set on the way and want to make sure I use the best stuff to prevent leaks.
I used Permatex black silicone adhesive sealant. I coated very liberaly during the install and after it dried went back and installed a bead around each light. 1 tube was enough for all of the lights. I plan on going back and installing another bead around the lights in the next week or two just for peace of mind. We just got our first good rain today since the install, but I’m at work today and drove my other vehicle. Fingers crossed there will be no leaks when I get home to check in the morning..
i originally wanted to use a marine marine adhesive like 3m 5200, but it was proving to be too difficult to work with so I switched to the permatex.
Originally Posted by bscooter99
So for those who have installed Recon lights or even OEM lights aftermarket, what kind of sealant are y'all using? As specific as possible. I have a set on the way and want to make sure I use the best stuff to prevent leaks.
So for those who have installed Recon lights or even OEM lights aftermarket, what kind of sealant are y'all using? As specific as possible. I have a set on the way and want to make sure I use the best stuff to prevent leaks.
my opinion is that 3M 5200 is the BEST product to use, it may be hard to work with but is a great product when dealing with water.
I cant argue with you, 5200 is one of the greatest products I’ve used. Another reason I switched to the permatex tho was in case I ever have to remove a light. I don’t know of anything that can remove 5200. 5200 is pretty permanent.
Originally Posted by 2017F250131
my opinion is that 3M 5200 is the BEST product to use, it may be hard to work with but is a great product when dealing with water.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
