To get an accurate Boost reading. Accelerate normally until you get in 3rd gear then to the floor. You should then see a full boost reading. I doubt it has anything to do with your extended crank times. Check your ICP pressure reading while cranking.

 

Does it fire up quicker cold?
Warm and hot starts for an early build typically see slightly longer crank times due to the nature of the pump style.
I think Ford says anything under 10 seconds is still normal.

What is is your ICP and IPR readings at WOT?

 

Mine has had a long cold crank, but not more than 10 seconds, for more than a year. Starts fine when warm. Always figured I had a oil leak in my future. Then, my IPR started maxxing out to 84 a couple of weeks ago. I'm about to do dummy plugs and standpipes.

 

Same here. I figure it's a cracked seal on one of the rail plugs.

I have ~5 sec cold starts, no hot start or even cold re-start issues, and no apparent issues when warmed up. IPR is 24% hot, but it's always run 23% hot since I've been monitoring data. I'm planning on using the starter jumper wire to spin the engine for about 5-10 seconds before the next cold start to see if that cuts down on start time, seems like that would confirm a very small HPO system leak down.

 

5 seconds is good in my book. I let mine sit for 3-4 weeks at a time. I only use it to tow. The longest I have timed is about 8 seconds, but thats about normal unless I have started it in the past day or two. I know for a fact that if your battery's are good, you can do twelve 30 second tries before the batteries give out. (dont ask how I know)

 

I'll dare bet your oil rails are leaking down over night, so the starter wire method Bryan mentioned is a good idea.

OP has an early build, so can't hardly be his issue(if he even has any issues)

 

One of the easiest things you can do to check for leaks is get under the truck and look at each and every connection from the exhaust manifolds up to the turbo.
Check for soot tracking/build up at the joints and bellows, that is a tell tale sign of a leak, that can easily rob a few lbs or more even with the engine running cherry.

 

 

 

 

 

It's Sunday. Chill out. We like to do things on the weekends other than sit at keyboards. There's pretty much nothing your CAC tubes have to do with cranking times, that's a dead end for that subject.

Did you try a start after spinning the engine with the starter wire for 5-10 seconds? Just because you have the early HPO system doesn't mean you don't have a seal leak. Or an HPOP problem, how many miles on the pump? IPR pegging to 74 means you're maxed out on oil pressure to run the injectors, PCM could be holding back air to match fuel supply.

Compare MAP, BARO, and EBP at KOEO. Should all read the same (in the same units). Any new squeals that could mean an exhaust leak?

Did the lower boost level show up right when you did the new FICM? Boost doesn't directly translate to flow, some tunes are written with different VGT mapping to hold higher or lower boost based on what the writer wants. If you changed to an Atlas 40 tune with the new FICM the PCM could just be responding to the fual changes. I don't see over 22-ish psi unless I'm intentionally getting the engine to downshift and controlling pedal application. It's all fly-by-wire, the PCM will ignore APP (the pedal positional PID) in multiple circumstances, specifically if you drop the pedal all the way to the floor; it's much more noticeable in manual transmission trucks, but the automatics do it also.