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Boost + speed density??

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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:51 AM
  #1  
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Boost + speed density??

So Ive got a 1990 F 250 with the 302w (speed density/manifold air pressure) . I've done a cam and valve springs and a full rebuild but I'm wanting power gains that the butt dyno will notice. Yes I know the 5.0 is not a pulling motor but this Truck is just my trail rig/toy. I know Finnegan and frieburger boosted the 5.0 in the rotsun but I'm assuming it was already mass air. I've seen the conversion kits to mass air but there very expensive. Would it be possible to pull the necessary sensors, Ecu, ducting off of a junkyard 96 or newer? And how much boost can a stock 5.0 bottom end take?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:54 AM
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Just remembered duh they did a blow through carb on the rotsun. would that be a better way to go? I kinda like the efi
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 10:56 AM
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You can run boost and an fmu that jacks fuel pressure high in relation to boost. It was a popular mod in the early days of efi but it is far from optimal.

You can run boost with a different "tunable" setup like stinger, quarterhorse and the like but it's normally not cheap.

​​​​​​cast pistons do not like boost, something 6 psi and a conservative tune is probably all you can do safely, but obviously plenty of people have done more.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
You can run boost and an fmu that jacks fuel pressure high in relation to boost. It was a popular mod in the early days of efi but it is far from optimal.

You can run boost with a different "tunable" setup like stinger, quarterhorse and the like but it's normally not cheap.

​​​​​​cast pistons do not like boost, something 6 psi and a conservative tune is probably all you can do safely, but obviously plenty of people have done more.
  • Thanks for the info, and sorry but what is an fmu? And the stinger and quarter horse are just ecm's right? And ya I'm not wanting to make it unreliable or blow my tranny so I wasn't planning on going over 6 psi
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 02:29 PM
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Fuel Management Unit. And the others are a piggyback style tuner.

The stock short block would be passable on low boost. And I have even seen guys get away making big power at high boost on CAST pistons... but they were VERY GOOD at tuning. If you went the TwEECer or Quarterhorse route, I'd tune for e85. Need more fuel to make the same power, but has a higher detonation resistance

edit
just saw you did a full rebuild. What is your compression ratio, and what is your quench distance?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
Fuel Management Unit. And the others are a piggyback style tuner.

The stock short block would be passable on low boost. And I have even seen guys get away making big power at high boost on CAST pistons... but they were VERY GOOD at tuning. If you went the TwEECer or Quarterhorse route, I'd tune for e85. Need more fuel to make the same power, but has a higher detonation resistance

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just saw you did a full rebuild. What is your compression ratio, and what is your quench distance?
Whatever the stock with E6 heads compression ratio is. Somewhere around 8.8:1-10:1 not quite sure which one. And I didn't measure exact quench distance I just checked to make sure the valves cleared
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Corbin probasco
Whatever the stock with E6 heads compression ratio is. Somewhere around 8.8:1-10:1 not quite sure which one.
Well first thing, if you get a set of E7 heads you will already be ahead of the power you are making now.

And I didn't measure exact quench distance I just checked to make sure the valves cleared
And you really need to know what your quench is. The wrong setup can be bad on a low power nonboosted engine (think detonation and poor mileage), and be compounded with boost.
Do you happen to know the manufacturer and part number of the pistons used in the rebuild? And was the block decked.. If so how much?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 11:35 PM
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And you really need to know what your quench is. The wrong setup can be bad on a low power nonboosted engine (think detonation and poor mileage), and be compounded with boost.
Do you happen to know the manufacturer and part number of the pistons used in the rebuild? And was the block decked.. If so how much?[/QUOTE]

I just did rings on oem pistons (along with bearings and a hone) and the block was not decked, I tried to keep tolerances oem spec and I was tight on money. It was a rebuild from my garage, I would have loved to take it to a Machine shop and get everything beautifully perfect but my wallet said no. I've driven about 800 miles since then and no problems so far
 
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 01:12 AM
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Ok, well the stock pistons should be fairly close to zero deck. Do you know how thick the head gasket you used is?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
Ok, well the stock pistons should be fairly close to zero deck. Do you know how thick the head gasket you used is?
It came in the gasket kit I ordered from rockauto and didn't specify any thickness for the head gasket so im assuming its whatever is stock
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:08 PM
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Well, without knowing all of your build specs, I would not advise boosting the engine. Too much clearance on quench or too much compression and you can get into terminal detonation very quickly.
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudsport96
Well, without knowing all of your build specs, I would not advise boosting the engine. Too much clearance on quench or too much compression and you can get into terminal detonation very quickly.
I appriciate the info. Do you know how much quench and what compression ratio would be ideal? If I decide to boost it I could measure and change head gaskets or get different heads if necessary
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 02:31 PM
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This guy explains it, and he has a few other videos to watch

 
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