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I have been looking at adding one of the slim combo boxes that combine a thin sub and amp into one small package, usually meant to go under the seats. I have the 40/20/40 bench seat in the front. I am wondering if any of these units would be small enough to mount under the middle jump seat and on top of the transmission tunnel? This would be the perfect place to hide this thing and not take up any usable space or get damaged. Does anyone know if its possible to fit one of these under there? If so, is there any downside as far as sound quality to doing it this way? I would also be upgrading the head unit and speakers at the same time. I am not looking for heart pounding bass, just enough where I can turn volume up (hard to hear with 7.3) without the speakers having to bear the bass. Any input is appreciated.
Aside from it being junk, it looks like it will fit. I don't have that year truck anymore, but you could just go out and measure. Bass being omni-directional won't really matter where you put it. Accept for rattle that is a fine place to install this.
I'd be interested the rest of your setup, but really your money is better spent with an amp and 4 speaker combo than this. It has a 25 amp fuse so I am guessing takes 12 gauge wire, so mathematically could be 1200 watts, but I'd never believe it. Doesn't list any specs specifically, I was specifically looking for THD and frequency response.
I've had similar things to this, bazooka tubes and the like and they do add a thump. All the effort of running the wires and such I still think I'd go with nice speakers and an amp. Amazon has a lot of reviews of them killing over after being installed, so quality control may be an issue.
Thanks for the advice. I realize this will probably not be the best sound quality, but my main goal is to relieve the speakers of the bass when I turn the volume up, especially with the windows down. With the 7.3 and windows down, you have to have the volume up pretty high just to hear the music at "normal" level. When I do this, it tends to rattle the doors and I hear the doors instead of the music, or I feel like I am gonna blow the speakers out. I don't want to spend a ton of money, I do not listen to rap, and don't care about booming, just want to be able to hear it properly in the cab. I also have zero interested in installing subs/amps under rear seats as I fold the seats up and use that space constantly. Since I have an extended cab (not crew) and it is a 2000, I have no room behind the rear seat either.
Would you happen to know of a better choice that the SSL? I was looking at the Alpine, Kenwood, some other versions, but this popped up with some good reviews and seems to have more power than the others. Also, I would not be wiring this myself; it would be done at a shop.
I don't see what head unit or speakers you are using...
If you are having to turn the music up a lot to hear it, add sound deadening. That little speaker is supposed to add filler, don't expect to add much if any in the way of dB. If they are factory speakers and radio you kind get what you get and dynamat is still your best investment. If it is aftermarket speakers in the doors and pillars add a cheap 50x4 amp this will improve sound and volume. Low end stereos and (cheap) factory stereos don't put out much RMS. What RMS they do has high THD. I replaced all my speakers in my work and personal trucks. Depending on what is going on with CL at the time it can be done for $40-$200. I bought 2 sets of my last speakers for $20 a set (they are $80 a pair normally, but 5x7 don't sell for crap on CL in my area). Decent ones online are $50-100. With no amps involved higher sensitivity will give you more volume per watt received.
"An increase of 3dB doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud"
If you insist on wasting your money on this, the one I linked is fine. They are considered a good name for budget stuff. I have a 4x100 amp of theirs and it has low THD and is much more powerful than the speakers I have so it doesn't have to try as hard to give it a clean RMS. 700+ reviews and it is damn near perfect.
I actually did get a new head unit and powered sub box ordered this weekend. Going with the Alpine iLX 107 head unit and the Kicker Hideaway sub box.
Loudness itself is not really my issue. The current alpine head unit and speakers can get plenty loud, it is just that the bass overpowers the speakers and everything rattles when at that volume. I am wanting to relieve the speakers of the duties of carrying the base and I did not want to lose any floor space at all. Speaking with a local shop and they said they installed one a few months ago in a tahoe and the customer was very pleased. Hopefully it will work out for my needs.
I appreciate the feedback and advice. Should be installed next weekend. I will let you know the results.
Not sure which one you bought exactly, but I assure you it is better than the original one you linked. I am guessing at least double the price though. An aftermarket head unit almost always has more RMS power, but that isn't a fix all. That type of deck should have a built in crossover to allow you to block frequency below 80/120hz. I personally wouldn't have bought a single DIN deck mascaraeding as a double. For me that radio is missing a ton of features for the money, but what i-Device isn't. It isn't my money though.
I realize I am giving up some features, but this one has wireless carplay which none of the others have. I listen mainly to old country and it's in a 7.3 diesel so there is a ton of extra background noise anyways. I am not too concerned about anything but relieving the speakers of bass duty, using spotify (or any other music app), and seeing my maps in front of me. 95% of the time I will probably just put my 600+ song playlist on shuffle and let it ride. I know anything I put in there will be much better sound quality than the 12 year old single din alpine head unit in there now with no subs or amps. I do have alpine speakers though, so it is not factory.
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