Bought my '06 new in 2005. 105K miles now
Has run an Edge tuner from day one
Did head studs/gaskets/EGR rebuild in 2015 (Ford Dealer service)
FICM rebuilt in 2013 by FICMrepair.com
Has a warranty remanufactured alternator
Batteries replaced with Motorcraft spec in Nov. 2017
Has been running well with exception of an occasional cold start problem that has not been able to be diagnosed.

Twice in the last 2 weeks truck has died while driving. No sputtering, just like the key was shut off. Pulled over (luckily) and it would not start, just spun. Both times, waited for about 2 minutes, it fires up and runs well again.....for a while. Now cold start problem is every time and more pronounced.

Two code readers come up with zilch.

Where should I be looking before I wave the white flag and take to the dealer?
Thank you

 

When it doesn't start read IPR % and injection pressure. Also, verify ficm main power and logic power. You will need something that can read the live data stream rather than just a code reader.

Richard

Richard

 

I need to retrain the ScanGauge I have, hasn't been connected since I did my major overhaul.

Not sure it can do those things, but I will check.

Thank you!

Edit; IPR% refers to?

 

Every time I have had a 6.0 just die it has been a cam sensor, which you can check easily by cranking her over and see if the tach jumps, if it does cam is good. all the other times it's the IPR valve on the HPOP on the drivers side of the engine way back behind the turbo, you will see metal cloth covering the connector and sensor to protect it from heat. When they fail they donot set a trouble code.

 

I climbed on on top of the engine and could not see the IPR valve. There is the cloth covered loom to the FICM and an upright heat shield between the Turbo and FICM but what I felt behind was smooth and metallic.

Using my ScanGauge;
Battery 13V
FICM logic power 13V
FICM Main power 47V
FICM vehicle power 13V

Of course, it fired up beautifully this morning. Tach did bounce on key turn and turning over but it fired instantly today. It is parked facing slightly downhill today. Maybe it is my imagination, but hard starts seem to be when facing slightly uphill or with the passenger side uphill. Again, I might be imagining that one. Since it has had an intermittent hard cold start for a long time, and has been in the dealer for this a couple times (it always starts instantly for them) I am grasping at straws now on that issue.

I don't know the TXD, RXF, RXD and MTH to program in the IPR% reading on the ScanGauge. I will see if I can find those somewhere.

Thanks for your tips gentlemen.

 

Forgot to mention that I put a new EGR valve on last summer. But the hard cold start has been off and on for 3 years.

I did clean my original EGR valve about every 20,000 miles, not sure it was bad, but I thought it was time as the '04 F350 I had previously left me on the side of the road a few times with EGR valve problems. It sputtered to a halt when the EGR valve died.

BTW, I don't know the the IPR valve does or what IPR stands for.

 

You didn't mention anything with doing the other work, of replacing the STC off the HPOP or the dummy plugs and stand pipes all with the Ford updated parts. The D-plugs and standpipe o-rings failing sound like a good possibility, but I've heard of an STC that could hold pressure when cold as well. My $.02

Scott

 

Yes, those were all addressed at the time of the big EGR project. Used Bullit Proof Diesel EGR (not bypassed) Stayed with OEM oil cooler, but new.

I looked again for that IPR valve, ugh, I do see somthing just inboard of the fuel rail. Looks connected to the Intake Plenum. I don't see the wires but it looks like a PITA to get to.

 

I had this problem last year and it ended up that my low fuel pressure relay went bad. I had to replace the whole fuse panel.

 

You won't see any fuel rails on a 6.0, the fuel passages are part of the head casting.
Might also want to program FICM sync into the Scanguage, and see if when you have this issue that you have sync. FICM relay is a good preventative measure, not saying that it's the issue.


IPR sits under the turbo, and takes a special socket to remove.
Here is a good vid on how to remove.


Cold hard start, you might have an oil rail leaking down.

 

 

Before taking anything apart, get the scan guage programed for ipr and icp. Those numbers are critical.

Richard

 

Well I took it into the dealer. I like the diesel tech, hw has workws onir before. It spent the night parked on a flat surface so of course it fired right up on the first key turn today.

I forgot to mention that it does run rich when cold with a lot of white diesel smelling smoke. Like it is over-fueling at idle. After getting warm it stops.

I mentiond the IPR and fuel pump relay. They have had their computers on it all day and can't find anything Yet. They seem receptive to my suggestions to test before we start swapping parts out which is my least favorite way of way of diagnosing a prolbem.

Will kepp the thread updated and pass on any informarion suggested here.

 

This is what the dealer has so far;

We got back into diag this morning And did have some results documented, the first was the CAM was slow and erratic. They pulled the CAM sensor and confirmed a swollen sensor end that is making contact with the tone ring and is leaking past the connector contaminating the connector end. The other is one of the batteries is actually cranking low. They tested the battery directly and it did actually fail. So they would recommend replacing the CAM sensor and connector, and We will be warrantying a battery

 

Glad they figured something out, looks like David 7.3 was on the right track with post #4

I've seen 7.3's do some crazy stuff with the CPS over the years, every engine has it's quirks