Hello ran into some trouble this week with my 6.0L. Looking for some suggestions. To give you some history on my vehicle I have done some of the basic maintenance items such as blue spring upgrade, new standpipes, replaced FICM power board, new EGR, new oil cooler and I am currently using a LiveWire TS to monitor engine data. The truck has never been tuned and other than the maintenance items and turbo back exhaust it’s completely stock. Now the problem.

I apologize in advance for being so long-winded but I figured the more information the better.

Was driving along and that truck just shut off. It Immediately re-started and ran but would sputter under acceleration. I was less than a mile from home and was able to limp it home. There was no engine light so I decided to scan for codes using the Livewire TS. The only code was P0500 speed sensor. I took a quick look at the speed sensor wiring at the rear and everything looked OK as far as I could trace it. I cleared the code and attempted to drive the truck again. This time I went less than a half a mile before the engine shut off again. Each time I attempted to start it the truck would start but as soon as I pressed on the accelerator and or put it in gear it would shut off again. While sitting on the side of the road attempting to start the vehicle and get it back to my house I was looking at the data on the LiveWire TS. The alternator voltage was strong and consistent, the FICM output voltage was steady at 49 V, the oil pressure Bill fast and well over 1500 psi while cranking and the cranking RPMs were sufficient. Those items as well as engine oil and coolant tamps were the only thing I had up on the screen. Eventually I got the vehicle to stay running long enough to get it back to my house. Once back at the house I scanned for trouble codes again and the P0341 and the P2614 codes appeared. Seemed easy enough and made sense why the motor would cut off if I had an intermittent signal to the cam sensor. I checked all the wiring going to the cam sensor as well as the connector, tested the resistance on the cam sensor .8 ohms everything looked OK but I decided just to replace it as it may be intermittent. After replacing the sensor I cleared the codes and drove around my yard trying to re-create the problem. I drove a short while before the truck sputtered a little, and then it seem to drive OK without incident. I tried to wiggle the wires to the cam sensor and the harnesses on in around the engine and PCM To see if I could get the problem to reoccur I didn’t feel comfortable that the problem was solved. The next morning I started the truck and let it idle for a while and it started to sputter when I hit the accelerator or brake (it is cold here and it was on high idle) I press the accelerator a few times and as it accelerated up it would turn off it did this a few times after a restart and finally would not restart. I scanned the computer and have no codes. I have a Schrader valve on the top of my fuel filter housing so I decided to put a pressure gauge on and check the fuel pressure at crank. With key on engine off I have 55 psi at the secondary filter. I want to be careful on how I proceed And I don’t want to create any new problems while the current problem is active. Any advise would be helpful.

Thanks for the advice, I have spent the last couple hours digging around for a chafed wire or poor connections to no avail. I did find one wire where the loom was shaved and the wire exposed going to the thermostat housing sensor which I assume is the coolant temperature sensor. I taped, put new loom and friction tape over that connection. There were several areas that I noticed pressure points on loom and wires but none of them cut through. I also thoroughly went through both fuse panels and checked all of the fuses for continuity and made sure they were all inserted and tight. I pulled out the air filter housing in intake tubing going to the turbo and inspected all of the wiring underneath and the connections going to the FICM. It’s clouding up here and getting ready to rain so I had to wrap it up. I did try to crank it over once I got it all back together and still no stars. I plan to pull the driver side battery and inspect the connections again beneath him at the PCM just to be sure. Any other suggestions would be helpful thank you.

Well I finally had some time to get back to it. I followed the troubleshooting procedure step-by-step and trace the wires and checked everything out going from the PCM to the cam sensor and everything checked OK and was unable to re-create a short or open. I ordered a wireless OBD II adapter and installed the Fusion the software on my iPhone hoping I could monitor some of the PID’s. It appears this software has limited PID’s even if you buy the enhanced package. It did however have a “CMP to CKP Synchronized” and it says no sync? The status of it didn’t change with key on engine off or during crank. I am unable to start the truck.I have not checked the crank position sensor as I did not get a code for that. Should I look there or what would cause the no Sync? I did what Was suggested Here and checked all of the plugs and harnesses as well as I could and didn’t find anything suspicious. However I’m not sure if I knocked it when I was removing the air cleaner and batteryhousing but the large diameter red wire on the driver side battery terminal that’s bolted to the main wire at the terminal had become loose. I retightened that but it didn’t change anything still no start. I’m trying to be as detailed as possible any advice would be greatly appreciated unfortunately I am getting rained on again so it will be tomorrow before I can get back to it.

Yeah I wish it would stop raining so I could get out and take a better look. I tested the cam sensor wiring but not the Crank so I’m going to check there. I had a pretty solid RPM reading so I figured the Crank sensor would be OK but now I’m at a point where I need to look further. Thanks

UPDATE- Bismic- First off thanks again for your help. I realize yesterday the app I was using was a little glitchy and I did not have an issue with cam/crank sync. I downloaded the beta version of FORscan for my laptop and seems to be 1000 times better than the OBD Fusion app on my iPhone.
I did follow the CMP/Crank troubleshooting procedure to check the cam and crank sensors and they both check good. I was not able to duplicate any short or open circuit to either circuits and traced the wires as best I could. They both ohm out correctly at the PCM plug.

I got to thinking and went back to a post you made in the tech articles regarding no start. And one of the line items was “no fuel” so I decided to go ahead and change both fuel filters as they were overdue. Not sure if this is of any importance but when I remove the upper filter the fuel slowly drained from the bowl. I turned on the ignition and the ball refilled and did not drain. The lower filter I removed and captured the fuel to inspect for water and or debris. The fuel had very little water in it but quite a bit of sand and debris. After I replace the filters and primed I attempted to start with no success. I did get a little stumble here in there like it was trying to start but didn’t.

At this point I am at a total loss. I decided to use the new software and capture some data in hopes that you may see something indicating the problem. The software I had before would not read ICP data this new software does. I made two attempts to crank with no star in captured the data log. I had FICM sync and crank/cam sync. I took a picture of the log and will post it here.