I'm new to this forum and pick up a 2004 E350 6.0. I did a lot of maintenance work to the truck. Deleted EGR, replaced all the o-rings on all 8 injectors, replaced tons of other o-rings on the top half of the engine and the truck ran perfect for the first 5K miles I got it. The truck has 125K so far.

At first during a cold start in the morning when I wanted to move the truck, I started like I normally do and it seems like the engine was running rough. I put in D and try to start to move the truck. It was very sluggish and had no power. I press on the accelerator pedal to try to move but it stalled on me. I was able to restart immediately no problem. I didnt really take notice as I thought it was a minor issue and that will go away.

Now, the past few days, it develop a engine stall after idling or run for like 10 minutes. At first when I first notice the stalling, I can immediately put it in neutral and restart the truck no problem. Now, I have to wait like 5 minutes and the truck will start up normally then the cycle repeats again. I can't no longer restart immediately anymore.

I just replaced both fuel filters and still same issue. I can hear the fuel on when I turn the key on. Attached are some screenshot of Torque Pro data of my truck while it was running. All the numbers look correct and I can't seem to figured out what the issue is.

Has anyone had the same issue and see what the fixes are?

BTW on the screenshot indicate 11.9v on the battery is the reading right after I started the vehicle. Once it was warmed for like 1 minute, the voltage went up to around 14v.

Thank you

 

I had a similar issue with my 99 SD F250's 7.3. It turned out to be the intank fuel screen coming apart and plugging the fuel inlet. I had to pull the tank and remove the screen assembly to find this problem. I removed the whole thing and replaced it with a section of rubber fuel line tipped with a "T" at the bottom, wrapped with new screen. This occasionally gets plugged too. When it does, I pull the fuel line loose at the inline fuel filter I installed and blow it clear with compressed air.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have been using B5 biodiesel for most of the last 5k miles and not sure if that the biodiesel "clean" some of the junk out in the fuel tank?

I started this morning and it started no problem. When I step on the accelerator pedal, it seems like the engine stumble a bit and not as smooth. I guess i need to check the fuel pressure on the secondary filter to determine and see if its indeed a fueling issue? What fuel pressure should the reading be at?

I'm now getting a code u0105 ficm communication error. Not sure if it's the ficm is the issue now?

 

All diesel is now a bio diesel blend. So no getting around that. Every once in a while when I fuel, I get straight diesel (you can smell it) When mine gets plugged, it'll start up but when you hit the pedal, it does nothing, doesn't die, just won't run above an idle. You can also try adding a gallon of gasoline to a tank full of fuel. This seems to help mine. Part of my problem is paraffin in the tank from blending condensate from a gas well. The gasoline seems to thin that out. I don't know what the fuel pressure should be. Stumbling I would think would be an indication that you're getting air in the system. That's always been the norm to me, I've been driving 18 wheelers for 41 years now. We started one the other morning and it had a lot of air in the system and we had to use the priming pump on the engine to get it out to let it start.

 

So, the issue is resolved. I got the code U0105 which equals to lost communication with the FICM. I contacted FICMrepair.com and spoke to Scott I believe. We talked and with the help from him, we determine that the issue most likely is my FICM.

I purchased a replacement FICM with the premium upgrade plus the Atlas 40HP tune and now the Van is awesome. No more stalling and I can feel the increase power plus more throttle response too. I'll see the next few days to how reliable this fix will be.

Thank you.

 

 

Hi Ed:

Thank you and I will bench test the alternator. I already sent my core yesterday so you should be getting it soon.

Also, I saw the voltage valve of the new FICM between 46 - 47.5v and my old FICM was always at between 49 - 49.5v. The car voltage is between 13.5 - 14v. Why is the new FICM voltage difference from my original FICM? Would the 47v FICM decrease the power? I see many people are doing mods to get to 58v but I didnt want to go that high.

Also, I bought 2 new batteries for the van too.

Thanks,

 

 

Hi Ed:

I will give you a call tomorrow morning to discuss more on the new FICM voltage.

Thanks,
David

 

 

BTW, would it be ok if I drive the truck or just leave it parked until I get this sorted out before driving? I need to take the van from Boston to NYC in few days to pick up an engine.

Thanks,