You need one of these-
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slide it under the trim between the trim and the windshield, and feel for the clips. When you feel one, hook behind it and and pry outward with the tool.

 

I used a couple of stiff putty knives. Just did this (twice) recently. PO had (poorly) installed a new windshield, including mangling the trim. Passenger side leaked buckets.
I had a parts truck with good trim, so I removed that first, and found where the clips were located, making the next one easy. Resealed the passenger side, driver side looked good and hadn't had any leaks. Next rainy spell, noticed a little water on driver's floor board, found a drip, so I removed just the top portions of the trim and resealed.

The clips on the parts truck were all pretty good, but only half on the driver. I used the best on the replacement, and to make the re-install go a bit easier, I put just the tiniest dab of grease on the part of the clip that the trim slides over, so as to not mangle the fragile trim.

I would recommend not using silicone. It doesn't adhere well even to really clean surfaces. And you aren't likely to have a perfectly clean situation. Your best bet would obviously be whatever the glass shops use (polyurethane, I think), but if you don't want to track that down, go to the building supply and pick up a tube of Flexible Seal. I've used this for decades on metal roofs. Nasty s**t, which is good, but sticks to anything (and everything), won't let loose, and lasts forvever in the weather. Be careful you don't obstruct the pegs the clips install on. I put a pretty good amount in, smoothed it with my pinky to where I could see it adhered to the original goop and the metal of the truck, cleared the pegs for the clips and let it sit for a few hours.

Examine all you clips closely, adjusting them with needle nose pliers if necessary so they are snug before reinstalling the trim. Makes it much easier pushing the trim onto them.

Take your time and you'll be fine

 

 

 

I didn't pull the glass out. It was a perfect, new windshield and I didn't have any desire to start over from scratch.

I have an '86 that had a leaky windshield, more more of a nuisance than a serious leak. I tried the thin stuff you mentioned, waste of time and money. And I live in a much drier climate than you.
I was very apprehensive when starting to remove the trim, and it really was quite easy. Popping the first connection was scary, but when you see how the clips work, it's no big deal and you even wonder what keeps the trim on.
Since your glass is already damaged, I can see replacing it, but I'm a tight SOB, and wouldn't replace one that didn't interfere with visibility. Although Oregon law does require it to be replaced.I've been told that more than once by local LEO, but they also say it mostly the state troopers that will actually write the ticket. My '86 has had a noticeably cracked glass since I bought it in '99

 

That's good to know. My main driver has a big star just below my usual visual spot. I've been meaning to have it replaced but it just hasn't been high on my priority list. The other one threw my phone at me and it hit the windshield. Must be love. I'll have to do dueling windshield replacements pretty soon. Thanks for all the hints everyone! I may try sealing the truck though, mainly to try to slow down the torrent of rain that gets into the cab. My local mechanic calls my truck "the leaky truck." It's unfortunately affecting the electronics in the dash and steering column, so it needs to get fixed one way or another.

 

Many auto glass places don't know how to effectively remove trim without screwing it up anymore.
I would take care of the trim BEFORE sending it to a pro for new glass.

After you get the trim off, but before sending it out spray soapy water solution around windshield seal and then use an air hose spray gun around the inside perimeter of windshield.
If the windshield has a compromised seal, it will show as a soap bubble.

If windshield tests out okay (no bubbles), I would then look at redo-ing the gutter sealant above the door.
That seam travels all the way from the rear window to the windshield.
Don't just recoat the old seam sealer in the gutter, you should dig out all of the old stuff and start with all new.
Pretty easy to do.

 

fordbozo if you want a hand with the trim give me a shout, I got the lower part of mine off and back on without damage.
Not an expert by any means but have done it once.

 

 

Have you verified that the windshield is actually leaking by using the soapy water and air hose routine?
A leak from anywhere on the upper cab will LOOK like it is the glass that is leaking, but many times it is other problems.

Seems like more than 50% of the time it is the cab gutter area that is taking on the water. From inside, it looks like a windshield problem.
Also, a piece of tape might not be a good enough seal to keep water out of the visor holes.

 

 

Don't bet on it.
Just trying to save you money and frustration, but knock yourself out!

 

Have I mentioned water drips directly out of the plastic trim around the windshield, including from the very top of the window? It's not like I have a cab that gets mysteriously wet.

 

What is that tool called, and where can I find one?