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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rear main seal replacement help, please!

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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 04:09 AM
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Rear main seal replacement help, please!

'86 F150 4x4 with a 302 and AOD. Rear main seal leak confirmed by oil in front of the flex plate/behind inspection window.

I am up to the part where the bell housing is to be removed. (I've taken off the transfer case, have the bell housing on a transmission jack and removed the cross beam and tranmission cooler lines.)

I am having trouble finding, reaching and removing the transmission to block bolts on the passenger and top sides. The catalytic converter seems in the way I've detached the converter from the exhaust manifold, removed the bracket holding the pipe to the middle of the frame (between the converter and the muffler) and the muffler hanger. I've temporarily strapped the muffler to the frame for support. It seems like the converter is being held in by the air pump/smog tube. I tried removing the horseshoe clamp that holds it in place, but it's rusted and only succeeded in breaking off the bolts and the thing still won't budge. I'm tempted to cut the tube and epoxy it back together when the job is done, but would rather not as I question if that would hold together.

As always, your help is appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Chasm*18

I am having trouble finding, reaching and removing the transmission to block bolts on the passenger and top sides.
I just removed my 302 and trans a couple months ago. The top bell housing bolts should be reachable from under the hood....although you'll likely have to climb inside the engine bay.
The lower bolts I removed using extensions and a 1/2 drive impact ball swivel. I had all of the same exhaust stuff in the way too.

Not sure if that helps, but that's what I did.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 07:45 AM
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That does help. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 07:50 AM
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'86 with a 302 should be fuel injected. I doub't you'll be able to reach the top bolts from the top side of the engine bay without removing the intake plenum. If you already have the cross member removed, try lowering the transmission jack so the back of the transmission comes down. That might give you enough clearance to get at the bolts. I always use a long extension and swivel socket on bell housing bolts.

Its been a long time since I had one of those apart so I can't remember but the air tube might be bolted to the back of the head. You could try removing the hose from the upper end of the tube and just leave it attached to the convertor.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 07:54 AM
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Some guys that pull engines all the time told me they carefully let the back of the transmission down as far as it will go, and that tilts the engine back enough to were they can get a stack of very long extensions on a impact and they can reach up from below and get the bellhousing bolts out. Never tried it that way myself though.

P.S. Keep an eye on the fan shroud and other pieces as you let the engine tilt back. You may have to take the fan shroud loose.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 09:08 AM
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Yes, rowdyredneck, my truck is fuel injected. Given that it's up on jack stands, I'd rather not remove the plenum. (I had it off recently to replace the (lower) intake manifold gasket, thinking it was the source of my leak. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have planned on doing the rear main seal at the same time.)

Franklin, thanks for the tip about the fan shroud. I wasn't aware of the potential need to loosen it.

It will be a few days, and maybe a couple of weeks before I can purchase an impact wrench. (Been wanting one for a while.)
 
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