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I have a 292 y block. I have a problem with a push rod intake number 3 cylinder. The y block dropped the push rod. So I put back the pushrod and adjusted the valve. While rotating the motor clockwise the push rod will pull away from the adjuster on the rocker. The lifter moves up and down in its bore. Also the spring and valve compress and rebound. I took out the pushrod on intake and exhaust on number 3 and compared them. The exhaust pushrod seems to stay in contact with the lifter while the intake dosnt. Both push rods seem to be straight. But when I put them side by side the intake push rod seemed to be bowed a little. The valve spring height seems to equal to the others. Also does anyone know the length of stock push rods? But the big question is why is the intake push rod doing this? I am out of ideas.
No truck motor has no miles on it. I rebuilt it years ago and life and other cars got in the way. i finally got tired of walking around it and cussing at it. I got it started and the truck smoked bad. I did a compression check and found number 8 dead. So I pulled off the valve cover off and found dropped pushrods. So I took off the intake and fixed number 8 cylinder. But just have problem with number 3. The intake valve was sticking but I got it to close with marvel mystery oil. I am thinking of ordering new pushrods. What do u think?
I am leaning towards stuck intake valve. I tried marvel mystery oil carb cleaner and pb blaster.all in small amounts still won’t unstick valve. Oh well have too end off I will take off head and have it checked out.
thanks
jerry
I just had a thought. Since it seems we are in agreement that there is rust varnish or worst a bent valve. Can I spray carb cleaner down this intake ports on the cylinder head? I would do it like three days in a row. I have tried spraying around the valve springs. What do you all think. If it doesn’t work I will take off the heads.
thanks
jerry
Since this is a fresh motor, I have to wonder if the valve guides were replaced during the rebuild, and were not reamed before the valves were installed? Pressing in the guides can distort the ID of the guide enough that reaming is necessary. Maybe the shop didn't have the correct size reamer, and skipped that step?
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