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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

My 53 Ford

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Old Jun 30, 2018 | 07:15 PM
  #31  
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Hey Everyone,

Posting a couple of questions to see if I can get your input.
  1. When I ordered my front suspension, I failed to ask for a 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. Instead I got 5 on 4.5. After doing some research, I can get a 5 on 5 rotor and re-drill it to the 5.5. I looked at my paperwork and that’s all the manufacturer would do anyway. Thinking longer term, should I change them to 5 on 5.5? My current wheels are obviously 5.5, but I will be getting new ones so not sure it makes a difference… The rear has 5 on 5.5 too. Never re-drilled rotors and don’t know if 4.5 or 5.5 would be better for the truck.
  2. I am starting my 4 link rear suspension. What’s the trick to setting ride height? I don’t have the wheels I will buy yet. I am planning on 18” wheels. Do I just divide that in half then add the tire size and set the rear at that height? Thinking it should be that easy!
 
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Old Jun 30, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #32  
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And, here's a couple of pictures from today.

I got the rear suspension off the truck and got the brackets off both the truck and the rear in preparation for installing the 4 Link rear suspension. Took a different method to the rivet removal today. Grinded the heads off, drilled a small hole in the center and then used a bigger drill bit to get just enough past the surface. Seemed to be quicker today, but still hate rivets.



Getting the rear ready to start setting up the rear suspension.


All the brackets cleaned off. I am not sure if I will need to take the braces off yet. Once I get the 4 Link rear in place I will see.


The rear removed, and the old suspension is off.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2018 | 08:02 PM
  #33  
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Hey guys. I haven't posted in a while, but have been doing a lot of work. I welded the suspension in, and painted the frame. It's been fun welding in AZ during the middle of the summer. I am starting to place the motor in, and have some questions for the folks who have put a motor in a truck it wasn't intended to fit in. If you take a look at my pictures, just wondering what you guys think. I know it's best to get the motor as low, as far back and as centered as possible.

I got the oil pan that helps with the coyote swaps and it works great. But, my power rack is now preventing me from going very low. Wanted to get your thoughts on the following.

1. How low should I place the motor. You can see in the pictures the oil pan is sitting flush with the cross member, but I can only come down maybe another 1" due to the power rack.
2. I have a thought about lowering the power rack by making new brackets to bring it down, leaving me more clearance. Or lowering it as far down to leave space between the oil pan and the rack and then making a new cover inside the cab to cover the trans.
3. Is it acceptable to offset the motor toward the passenger side a bit? Would like to make a little extra room for the steering links.

I don't have a radiator yet, but am thinking my clearance should be good. And the only other thing I am foreseeing is whether I can get a floor mounted shifter (Planned on using a Lokar), my drive shaft may hit the middle crossmember which I can cut it out and make a new one that can clear it. Other than that, the headers clear and don't hit the frame. Hoping to get the motor mounts in within the next week or two and have it a rolling chassis with the engine sitting in there.

Looking forward to your help.


Here you can see the trans just below the cab.

Just a side picture showing how the motor is sitting where the oil pan is almost flush and obviously the trans is a bit lower without the angle actually set. Going for about 3-5 degrees

This is a picture with the motor mount. I am trying to get the motor mount closer to the cross member so I can use it to mount the tubular motor mount. I can go forward a bit, but the may run into clearance issues with the oil pan.

Trans sticking up in the cab

Other side showing the rack

A front picture.


And here's a picture of how close I am to the power rack, but can certainly get the oil pan lower and let it get closer to the oil pan.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 01:20 PM
  #34  
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Looking good . Lots shift the engine a little for steering clearance , the lower the less chance of firewall issues but do not drop your rack . It can cause bump steer if it is not in the proper position .
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 03:18 PM
  #35  
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Thanks for the reply. Forgot about bump steer. I was trying to keep it as far to the passenger side as possible, but have the fitting for the rack there. I removed the line because it comes up and to the right, which will cause issues with the oil pan. I am going to make a new line that comes out and to the left, then back to the right where it needs to connect to. You can see it in the picture.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 08:25 PM
  #37  
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tor-build.html
Check out this thread, Nicholas has been here for ages and not sure if you'll ever see him again, but his build is one of the best I've seen..
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 09:57 PM
  #38  
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Yeah, that guys work is just awesome. I have read his thread a few times. Too bad we never got to see him finish it. Sad to think something might have happened to him.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 04:37 PM
  #39  
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Hey everyone. I haven't posted in a while, but I have made a bit of progress. I finished up all of the suspension bits, installed the engine and trans mounts and have the motor in. I am figuring out what I need for the Fuel system, brake lines, and will then have the exhaust made at a local shop. I am also starting on the cab to get the repairs done so I can get it back on for good. There is a lot to still figure out and a long way to go, but it's coming along.

final fitment with cab on.

 
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Old May 11, 2019 | 08:24 PM
  #40  
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Use a 97-04 Corvette fuel pump. CPP sells a whole kit that will work with the Coyote swap. Will save you alot of money
 
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