When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know this topic has been covered before but I can't find any threads on it.
What I have attempted is using the flat side of a bearing splitter against the backside of the wheel, and have a deep 5/8 NF long nut threaded onto the shaft part way that I'm pushing against with a puller using 1/2" drive ratchet. Had it soaked with penetrant for a week. No puller holes in the wheel. Man, that sucker is on there. I'm trying to save the wheel if I can.
I think at this point some heat is in order. I'd use a small torch to heat the bolt pushing on the shaft. That will transfer heat into the shaft and surrounding hub. Once it's hot I'd gently smack on the top of the puller screw head to scare things into submission. Go easy with the hammer so as not to compromise the bearings and races in the steering box. Might try a few heat cycles with some penetrant in between. I always use anti seize on stuff like this when reinstalling. Good luck!
If there aren't two threaded holes on either side of the splined hole in the wheel, in the hub, you can drill and tap some. 5/16"-UNF is what most wheels came with.
I would resist the temptation to pound on the steering shaft, no good can come of that.
If there aren't two threaded holes on either side of the splined hole in the wheel, in the hub, you can drill and tap some. 5/16"-UNF is what most wheels came with.
I would resist the temptation to pound on the steering shaft, no good can come of that.
Yeah, no heat. The wheel is in pretty good condition. I did try rapping the puller smartly while it was under tension, but that yielded nothing. I'll do the drill & tap. Even the factory manual illustration shows using the tapped holes (that aren't there).